Tag: Argentina

SA: Buenos Aires – Day 2 – Disembarkation

Thursday, February 2, 2023

By the time dinner rolled around, we were still so full from the huge lunch, we had some fruit and cheese at the Lido. We enjoyed the warm weather out on the Sea View, said good-bye to some of our favorite waiters and staff, listened to some of the Dueling Piano players set (Rolling Stone Lounge band had the night off), and then called it a night.

Our instructions for tomorrow had been left on the bed. We put the two large suitcases and one of the carry-ons in the hallway. The directions said we would see them again at the airport. I hoped so.

We were up at 6:00 and at the Lido for breakfast by 6:30. Since the ship had arrived yesterday, the local authorities had already cleared it for disembarkation, so the disembarkation announcements began promptly at 7:00.

Our number was called at 8:30 and we proceeded to the gangway. We showed our ship card one last time and we were out the door. Again, we had to take a shuttle bus to our tour buses outside of the industrial port. Pretty crowded with people trying to juggle luggage and stuff on those shuttles.

We were taking the HAL tour “Spirit of Buenos Aires Waterways with Airport Transfer.” The tour description stated ” This option is available to guests who are disembarking the ship.

The Tigre Delta with its rivers, streams and green islands is one of Argentina’s most attractive areas to explore. For more than 100 years, channels of Tigre Delta have been a favorite summer gateway to porteños — the name describing the inhabitants of Buenos Aires. The Delta Islands are formed by the continuous sediment of the Paraná River, which gives the river and estuary a peculiar brownish-red color. Take a leisurely, one-hour ride on a comfortable riverboat along the waterways.

During the coach drive back to Buenos Aires, you’ll pass through residential areas of Argentina’s capital with some free time to stroll around San Isidro — one of the few remaining areas where style and romanticism are still proudly on display.

Your tour ends at Ezeiza International Airport in time for your flight.

Notes: This tour is available only to guests whose cruise ends in Buenos Aires with flights after 5pm.

Our guide had some of the same information that yesterday’s guide did but she did dwell more on the sorry state of Argentina’s economy. Yet, she would get distracted too – she’d start a dark tale of the dictatorship and then “look – a tree!”

We didn’t exactly follow the itinerary of the description. We headed first to the San Isidro area. We traveled down the street Ave del Libertador for a long way. At first, we went through neighborhoods that all the houses had razor wire and spiked windows. The streets were narrow too. Once, the bus driver had to get a patrolperson to go tell the owner of a car that it had to be moved so he could get the bus down the road.

Eventually, the road came to more upscale neighborhoods that had lots of restaurants and Mercedes and Peugeot dealerships. Didn’t see any more razor wire but a bigger police presence. Lots of dog walkers too. One person I counted had 10 dogs he was walking.

Stopped at a Cathedral. We were told we could go inside but they were having some sort of service, so we stayed outside. It began to rain lightly. We were able to walk over to the square and admire the statues.

Eventually, we arrived at the canal port. The tour boat was comfortable, had air conditioning, a working toilet, and sold drinks and snacks. It reminded me of the ones in Amsterdam. Once we left the dock area, you were free to move about and even go on the outside deck.

The ride was pleasant. We passed some rowers and the rowing club. This area the guide said was mostly for vacationers from the City who wanted to spend time in nature. However, some people were year-round residents. We waved at children who were out of their docks. It was a pleasant way to spend an hour. Some of the places were very nice. Others not so much.

Once we got back from the boat tour, we had 25 minutes to get something to eat at the little shopping area at the dock. We made the mistake of ordering at a bar & grill. It took a while for it to cook so we had to take it with us on the bus. Just around a corner was a McDonald’s that we could have gone to, but we hadn’t seen it. I have to say though that the hamburger from the grill was better than McDonald’s.

Once we were back on the bus, we headed straight to the airport on the interstate. The skies opened up and we had a downpour. I thought it might slow the traffic down but that was not the case. We arrived at the airport at 2:00.

Our luggage was all in a covered area outside of Terminal A. Of course, Delta flyers were going out of Terminal C. Once we found our three pieces amidst all of the luggage, we could have gotten one of those carts and pushed our luggage to the Terminal across the airport. However, a nice young man with the porter company offered to load it on the cart and push it for us. He didn’t speak much English, but he recognized Chuck’s Georgia shirt as “Number 1 American Football.” He walked us all the way to the correct gate in the terminal. He accepted US money as a tip and seemed pleased.

It was quite a long walk from Terminal A to Terminal C. I didn’t see anyone assisting with wheelchairs so I’m not sure what the passengers who may have needed one did.

It was now going on 3:00, there were some of our fellow Delta flyers already seated. Some of us were on the 9:15 flight to Atlanta. Others were on the 11:00 flight to JFK (although they got a notice that it would be 1:00 a.m. before they left). However, right now, the gate area was closed to all, and nobody could tell us exactly when it would open. This did not bode well.

SA: Buenos Aires, Argentina

Wednesday, February 1, 2023

We were docked in an industrial area that was already hard at work when we got up at 8:00. I went to get our coffee since today will be the last day we can get it from the Coffee Bar. You know you’ve come to the end of the cruise when the Coffee Bar has run out of large To Go cups. To compensate, they put two shots of espresso into a small To Go cup.

We ate a very light breakfast in the Lido because we certainly didn’t want to not be hungry for our HAL tour today entitled “A Culinary Walk through Buenos Aires: In Partnership with Food & Wine Magazine.” The description states ” With its exciting culinary scene, Buenos Aires is a city that is a delight for foodies and anyone who loves a good meal. On this food tour with a small group of like-minded travelers (8 to 20 people), visit some of its authentic restaurants.

Argentina is known for its amazing meats, which are central to the diet here, making this outing a great choice for carnivores.

Your day begins with a guided panoramic drive through Buenos Aires, taking in highlights such as Plaza de Mayo — the city’s most famous square. You’ll drive down Avenida 9 de Julio — the wide thoroughfare named in honor of Argentina’s Independence Day. You’ll also pass the beautiful parks of Palermo — one of the city’s most buzzing neighborhoods.

A culinary walking tour leads you through a traditional neighborhood packed with locally-owned restaurants. Along the way, your guide will talk about the history of the places you visit, sharing stories of life, past and present, in this great city.

At three distinctive restaurants, you’ll savor a true taste of Buenos Aires. Try empanadas, choripan (sausage with French baguette), barbecued meats, grilled provoleta cheese and chimichurri — a dipping sauce of fresh herbs, garlic and peppers. A glass of Argentine red wine is included with lunch.

For dessert, a heladeria offers homemade ice cream.

Portions are small at each stop but, by the end of the tour, you will be full and you will have a newfound appreciation for the life and food of Argentina.

Notes: Wear comfortable walking shoes and dress for the weather.

We met at the main stage at 10:00. When they called our tour number about 40 people stood up. I thought “this doesn’t look like a small group.” Once we got outside, we were directed to a shuttle bus as we were not allowed to walk through the industrial port. The shuttle took us to the waiting tour buses outside of the industrial port. Because the ship was going to be here overnight, they announced that the shuttle buses would run all night long.

Once we reached the tour buses, we were divided into two groups of twenty. We were on a very comfortable bus but the guide’s microphone didn’t work and she had to talk very loudly for all to hear. She spoke English well and she did the best she could to talk loudly.

She gave us a lot of interesting information about Buenos Aires and Argentina. What I found especially interesting is what she said about the Falklands which she always referred to as the Malvinas. She said she was in College before she knew that Argentina did not control the Malvinas and that other people knew them as the Falklands.

She told us that we would be going to three different restaurants – two for appetizers and one for the main meal. She said we would meet up with the other tour group at the main meal. Then, we would all go to a gelato parlor.

First, we had a nice overview of the city as she talked.

Guide called it Shanty Town – near the port – she said don’t go there.
Railroad Station – No longer used. Trying to decide what to do with it.
Lots of old buildings
Lots of new buildings
Statues everywhere
Obelisk Monument – Built in 1910 to celebrate 400th anniversary of Buenos Aires
Floralis Genérica is a sculpture made of steel and aluminum – a gift to the city by the Argentine architect Eduardo Catalano.

The bus dropped us off near the first restaurant. We had empanadas and your choice of beer, soft drink, or water. I thought the beer was good and asked what kind it was thinking it was a local beer – Heineken. Okay. The empanada was full-size and very good. I thought we were supposed to get small portions.

As we walked to the next restaurant, we passed the other tour group going to our restaurant.

We sat outside at our next restaurant, and I forgot to get the name. We first created our own Gancio Batido – similar to a pisco sour. Mixed Gancio liquor with pressurized seltzer water and served over large ice cubes. They were very good if you like a lemon flavor.

They served it with a choripan with two types of sauces.

Our next restaurant we met up with the other group and all sat inside. Your choice of drinks was Malbec, a white wine, or water. We were first served a grilled provolone cheese. Then we were served a skirt steak. Next, we were served steak sirloin. There was so much food. The servers kept pouring the wine.

After we were finished, I just knew I would not be able to eat another bite. The bus picked us up and the guide reminded us that our last stop was for gelato. Okay. I would find room.

We were each able to get two scoops. I knew at least one flavor would be dulce del leche (sweet milk). Our cruise director, Kevin, who is from Argentina, mentioned that we need to try dulce de leche at least once while we are in Buenos Aires.

The guide also told us to get at least one scoop with the flavor. I got one scoop of traditional dulce de leche and one scoop of Patagonia vanilla with fruit. The dulce de leche tasted like a light caramel flavor to me. They were both very good. Chuck had finished his before I thought to get a photo of it.

The guide told some more interesting stories about Buenos Aires on the way back to the port but there were a lot of people (me included) trying to keep their eyes open after all that food. I heard some people say they had another tour that evening that was going to include another meal. I would not have been able to handle it. I just know I needed a nap. This was an excellent tour.

Travel Trivia

Buenos Aires, Argentina

Tango, a distinctive dance and the corresponding musical style of tango music, began in the working-class port neighborhoods of Buenos Aires.

The city has the busiest live theatre industry in Latin America, with scores of theaters and productions. Typically, every weekend, there are about 300 active theatres with plays, a number that places the city as first worldwide, more than either London, New York or Paris.

The University of Buenos Aires, one of the top learning institutions in South America, has produced five Nobel Prize winners and provides taxpayer-funded education for students from all around the globe.

Buenos Aires has the highest concentration of soccer teams of any city in the world.

Buenos Aires has been a candidate city for the Summer Olympic Games on three occasions but has never been the host. In 1956, it lost by one vote to Melbourne.

Avenida 9 de Julio is the widest street in the world at an imposing sixteen lanes. It typically takes at least 2 traffic light rotations to cross.

There are two theories as to why the Casa Rosada, the presidential headquarters where Juan and Eva Perón addressed the nation, is painted pink. The first is that it represented the coming together of two political parties in the late 19th century, one of which was represented by the color red, the other white. The other more gruesome theory is that it’s actually cow’s blood, which was a common coating for buildings at the time. The blood protected against the damaging effects of heat and humidity.

Built in 1913, the Buenos Aires Underground is the oldest subway system in Latin America. The stations display artwork and even have musical performances.

SA: Puerto Madryn, Argentina (part 2)

Saturday, January 28, 2023

The guide told us we had 1.5 hours to walk the trail, go to the bathroom (there would not be another stop on the way back), and be back on the bus. The trail could take you all the way to the shoreline. It was a hot day and the trail looked long. Most of the trail was rock and loose gravel so you had to be careful not to turn an ankle. Some of the trail was boardwalk but even it had slats that were uneven, and I saw people stumble over them. If you didn’t want to walk the trail or couldn’t manage it, there were plenty of benches around and lots of penguins to watch even at the beginning of the trail.

I set my watch alarm for one hour just to be sure we were on the way back when it sounded.

Again, the surrounding area was desert-like with scraggly shrubs. You could find Magellanic penguins in the shade of the shrubbery. Many had made their burrows under the shrubbery. Some would be standing out in the heat. Just like the other places we visited, the penguins would cross the designated path to get to and from the water and we had to wait and give them space to do so. In some places, the boardwalk was raised so the penguins could cross under it or stand under it in the shade.

Once we arrived at the end of the trail, I enjoyed watching the penguins swimming and bobbing in the water. It was so hot that I’m surprised they weren’t all in the water.

There were also a number of Guanacos wandering around in the area. The guide said that the penguins are not bothered by them.

My alarm went off and we started back, it seemed to take much longer than the walk down. I guess because it was so hot.

Really enjoyed the time there even though it was crowded with tourists and hot. (Have I mentioned it was hot?)

Before we boarded the bus, we looked around the little museum that seemed to be devoted to sheep farming. Some people were purchasing water and soft drinks at the small café.

Once we got back on the bus, we were given a box lunch of an apple, granola bar, a bottle of cold water, and a sandwich. I wish I had taken a picture of the sandwich. The bread was thick and dry like it was stone-ground. There were slim slices of meat and cheese. The sandwich was so long that I broke the bread in half, folded the meat and cheese over to put it between the bread half slices. It was still a big sandwich.

We followed the same route back to the port and the tour guide didn’t have more information to give us until we reached the city, so I was glad that I had my book to read. The air conditioning seemed to be working better also. Some people used the time to nap.

When we got back to the port, there was a group of people doing traditional dances. I was not able to get any videos or photos as they were finishing up as our bus arrived.

We enjoyed the sunshine on the Sea View deck and then decided to get cleaned up for the evening’s activities.

This was our last stop to see penguins. Each stop was unique, and I am so glad to have been able to see them. If you take this cruise and really want to see penguins on a HAL tour, I recommend that you pay for the tours on the website prior to the cruise instead of waiting until you board. These tours sell out fast.

Also, I’ve read where people said the smell of the penguin poo was horrible and overwhelming. There was a lot of penguin poo, especially in the Falklands site, and there was an ammonia smell, but it wasn’t terrible. Maybe the wind was blowing so much that it minimized the smell. I just know it didn’t seem as bad as I had expected.

Travel Trivia

Puerto Madryn, Argentina

The town was founded on 28 July 1865, when 150 Welsh immigrants arriving aboard the clipper Mimosa, named the natural port Porth Madryn in honor of Sir Love Jones-Parry, whose estate in Wales was called “Madryn”. 

Puerto Madryn was the port to which Argentine prisoners of war captured in the Falklands Islands during the 1982 war were repatriated on the vessel SS Canberra.

Argentina’s largest aluminum plant was constructed here in the 1970s, helping further develop an already solid economy. Then, when the Peso was devalued in the 90s, Madryn experienced another economic boom as international tourism developed around diving, fishing, and marine wildlife viewing.

SA: Puerto Madryn, Argentina

Saturday, January 28, 2023

Table shuffleboard all tied up at 4-4. There will be a championship match before the end of the cruise.

We had another table for six in the main dining room. The service was so slow that by the time I got my food, I inhaled it without taking a photo. Chuck and I each had the chicken scallopini. It was very good.

Tonight’s main stage program was another BBC Planet Earth movie. We skipped it and went to the Rolling Stone Lounge. We only stayed for one set because of our early excursion.

Slept fitfully but got up with the alarm at 6:00. Room service breakfast was delivered at 6:50. Got to get ready to see some more penguins!

We had a HAL tour entitled “Best of Puerto Madryn: Punta Tombo Reserve.” The tour description states

About the Excursion – 7.5 hours

Puerto Madryn is the stepping-off point for at least two of Argentina’s most exciting Natural Parks — the Valdes Peninsula and Punta Tombo.

The Punta Tombo Nature Reserve, which you will visit today, is world renowned as perhaps the finest spot from which to view Magellan penguins. It is located 111 miles from the city of Puerto Madryn and will afford you the truly unusual experience of observing the Magellan penguin at close range in its natural habitat. It is estimated that more than 450,000 penguins come here each year, and from November onwards it is possible to also see baby penguins leaving their nests.

As you quietly stroll along the footpath through the colony, the lovable and endearing penguins will not be afraid of you. They are used to having visitors, and the visitors’ code of conduct, explained by your guide, ensures that disturbance to the birds is minimal. You will learn about how the Magellan penguins mate for life — the female lays two eggs each year, which the male and female then brood and raise together.

Notes: A box lunch is included. Travel time to Punta Tombo is approximately 2½ hours each way. The road is unpaved and dusty in places. Due to Puerto Madryn’s remote location, the standard of transportation used may be more basic than that in some other ports. Restrooms are available only at the rookery entrance and at the gas station during the ride. This tour is available only on select sailings due to time in port. It is essential that you wear warm, layered clothing in order to fully enjoy and participate in this excursion. Outer layer should be waterproof and windproof. Bring gloves, a warm hat and a scarf.

Met in the main stage and were quickly directed to the tour buses. So glad today was not another tender day. The gangway was a little steep from Deck 2 to the pier but at least there was no bobbing boat to have to get in and out of this morning.

The bus had comfortable seating, but the air conditioning did not work very well. Our tour guide is a teacher during the school year and does tour groups through the summer. She teaches English reading comprehension. Her English was excellent and the sound system in the bus worked well. She discussed many topics about Argentina and Patagonia. Made the time pass quickly.

The bus ride was about 2 hours – mostly on the highway but the last 30 minutes is on a bumpy dusty road. There is not much to see once you leave the city. We did get a bathroom break at a truck stop. There were lots of cars and trucks there, so I assume it was the only available one for miles around.

The landscape reminded me of southern Arizona (except for the large wind mills). We did see some sheep, a few horses, and some Guanacos – camelids native to South America that are closely related to the llama. Also saw several small make-shift religious shrines along the highway. Wondered who put them there and why.

I did not expect to see a life-size dinosaur statue. The guide told us that Argentina boasts some of the biggest dinosaur fossils ever found. She said this dinosaur was advertising the Museum of Paleontology Egidio Feruglio located in Trelew, Argentina.

While it would be interesting to see the fossils, I was looking forward to the encounter with more penguins. I was glad to finally get to the entrance of the rookery. As we took the opportunity for another bathroom break, our guide went to get our entrance tickets.

SA: Ushuaia, Argentina

Wednesday, January 18, 2023

We went to dinner at 6:30. We were at a table for six. I am glad the conversation went well because the service was particularly slow. We each chose the swordfish. We didn’t exit the dining room until 8:45. I called it a night while Chuck went to the Casino to play some poker.

Got up at 6:00 to get ready to go outside to see the six glaciers of Glacier Alley in the Beagle Channel. I went up to the Coffee Bar to get our usual. However, today, being a scenic cruising morning, the Crow’s Nest was packed, and it took over 30 minutes to get our coffees.

Went to third deck (promenade) starboard side in time to see the first glacier. Once we exited “the alley,” we picked up speed to get to Ushuaia.

After we exited the alley, we ate breakfast in the main dining room. I then went to Jim’s presentation on the recap of Glacier Alley. He showed some of the photos he took this morning and then presented maps so we could see our locations. He is a fun presenter. He let us know that he was struggling that morning. He only had one contact in. He hoped the other was still in his sink.

We anchored off of Ushuaia at 11:00. In order to avoid the madness of the Lido at this time of day, we ordered room service for lunch. If you order room service, be sure to give yourself plenty of time. Usually takes 30 to 45 minutes to arrive from the time you order it. The food was on-time, hot, and included everything we ordered.

We had another HAL tour today entitled “Drive to Tierra Del Fuego National Park” and the brochure description was:

About the Excursion – 4 hours

To reach Tierra del Fuego National Park you will pass through some of Ushuaia’s suburbs and cross the Pipo River Valley. This National Park was created to protect the southern portion of sub-Antarctic forest. Today it provides visitors with the opportunity to enjoy the Andes and the region’s forests, rivers, lakes and peat bogs. It is also home to a large variety of birds.

Ensenada Bay offers great views of Redonda Island, with stunning Chilean islands of Navarino and Hoste as a backdrop. You will travel along a narrow and picturesque route that teems with wildlife, stopping to visit Roca Lake and take a short walk along the coast to learn about the local flora.

Finally, you’ll arrive at Lapataia Bay — the southernmost place in the world that can be reached by road. Indeed, this is where the famous Pan-American Highway ends.

Notes: It is essential that you wear warm, layered clothing in order to fully enjoy and participate in this excursion. Outer layer should be waterproof and windproof. Bring gloves, a warm hat and a scarf.

We arrived at the main stage 15 minutes before the meeting time but they ushered us right to the tender. Ushuaia had only two tender piers and I counted four other ships anchored. That should have been my first clue that today was not going to be great.

Our tender was in line for one of the piers to open up. We bobbed around for quite a while. Once we finally got to the pier, the tour operators just pointed to the right and said go to the buses. The sidewalk was filled with vendors, and we had to run the gauntlet until we finally found some buses.

The weather was beautiful and unseasonably warm. Chuck was glad he wore a t-shirt. The bus was comfortable, but the sound system had a terrible echo. Combine that with a guide who really struggled with English, we were only able to understand every few words in her narration.

It only took about 20 minutes to reach the outskirts of the national park. Inside the park, the roads were very dusty.

When we reached the first stop, she said it was the southern-most lake area and had the southern-most post office. She said we had 20 minutes here. Most people headed for the post office to get a card to mail. There was soon a long line. Not all the people got to mail a card as they said the postmaster was very slow. I heard that for later tours he wasn’t even there. In his defense, it was a national holiday, and most people were out and about fishing, picnicing, or just relaxing in the sun.

I know she wanted to leave in 20 minutes but a number of cars, vans, and more buses (both HAL and independent tour providers) showed up and ended up blocking us in. There was a lot of discussion between drivers. I couldn’t understand the language, but I knew the hand gestures.

This same scenario happened at all the stops – too many vehicles, too many people. Lots of loud discussions among the drivers. I decided that the national park must have been the only tour available that day.

Our second stop was the western-most lake area. Again, 20 minutes. She should have realized that it took us about that long to even get off the bus. Didn’t matter. Still got blocked in.

Tiny bird
Someone said these berries were edible. Didn’t test the information.

We then stopped at the visitor center for a bathroom break and to look at the gift shop. The line for the women’s restroom was long as usual. I didn’t have time to look in the gift shop. I did get a photo of a large bird that seemed to enjoy posing.

Our last stop was the point that held the End of the Road sign. There was a long line for photos, but it was finally my turn. We were ready to get back to the pier.

We got back to the pier at 6:15. We thought we would have time to go to some gift shops, but we took one look at the tender line that was snaking down the sidewalk and decided we had better get in it.

We finally made it back to the ship at 7:00. We were tired, hot, dusty, and needed a drink. What a day.

Travel Trivia

Argentina

The earliest recorded human presence in modern-day Argentina dates back to the Paleolithic period. The Inca Empire expanded to the northwest of the country in Pre-Columbian times.

Europeans first arrived in the region with the 1502 voyage of Amerigo Vespucci.

With an area of 1,073,500 square miles, Argentina is the second largest country in Latin America, the eighth largest country in the world, and the largest Spanish speaking country in the world.

Argentina is home to the highest and lowest points in the southern hemisphere. Aconcagua is 22,831ft above sea level, and Laguna del Carbon is 344ft below sea level.

Argentina has the world’s largest waterfall system in its Iguazu falls on the Iguazu River. The falls have 275 drops and a width of 269ft.

Argentine beef is highly regarded in international markets.

Argentina was the first country to air a radio program in 1920, and currently, has the largest percentage of radio listeners in the world.

The name “Argentina” comes from the Latin word “silver.”

Argentina was the first country to use fingerprinting as a method of identification. In 1892, Inspector Eduardo Alvarez made the first criminal fingerprint identification. Thanks to this method, he was able to identify Fransisca Rojas – a murderer of her two sons.

There are an estimated 9000 bird species, 1000 bird species, 400 mammal species, 300 reptile species, and 200 amphibian species living in Argentina.

The oldest known dinosaur species on earth were found in Argentina. The fossilized remains of about 140 million years old Titanosaur were discovered in Neuquén province in Argentina’s Patagonia region.

Yerba Mate is the country’s national drink and is also known as chimarrão or cimarrón. It’s a caffeine-rich infused drink made from yerba mate herb.

Ushuaia, Argentina

Pronounced “oo -swy-ah”

It is the southernmost city in the world.

It was once a penal colony. Established in 1883 by President Julio Argentino Roca, the prisoners considered most dangerous were sent to Argentina’s southernmost territory, where they constructed the prison themselves, as well as other infrastructure in Ushuaia, such as the railway.

There is a beaver problem. These furry animals were introduced from Canada in the 1940s to build a fur industry, which didn’t work. Now the beavers are responsible for a host of damage around the island.

Ushuaia is not connected to mainland Argentina. The city is on the island of Tierra del Fuego, which is divided between Chile and Argentina. To reach the city by land, you have to cross into Chile and take a ferry across to the island.