SA: Buenos Aires – Day 2 – Disembarkation

Thursday, February 2, 2023

By the time dinner rolled around, we were still so full from the huge lunch, we had some fruit and cheese at the Lido. We enjoyed the warm weather out on the Sea View, said good-bye to some of our favorite waiters and staff, listened to some of the Dueling Piano players set (Rolling Stone Lounge band had the night off), and then called it a night.

Our instructions for tomorrow had been left on the bed. We put the two large suitcases and one of the carry-ons in the hallway. The directions said we would see them again at the airport. I hoped so.

We were up at 6:00 and at the Lido for breakfast by 6:30. Since the ship had arrived yesterday, the local authorities had already cleared it for disembarkation, so the disembarkation announcements began promptly at 7:00.

Our number was called at 8:30 and we proceeded to the gangway. We showed our ship card one last time and we were out the door. Again, we had to take a shuttle bus to our tour buses outside of the industrial port. Pretty crowded with people trying to juggle luggage and stuff on those shuttles.

We were taking the HAL tour “Spirit of Buenos Aires Waterways with Airport Transfer.” The tour description stated ” This option is available to guests who are disembarking the ship.

The Tigre Delta with its rivers, streams and green islands is one of Argentina’s most attractive areas to explore. For more than 100 years, channels of Tigre Delta have been a favorite summer gateway to porteños — the name describing the inhabitants of Buenos Aires. The Delta Islands are formed by the continuous sediment of the Paraná River, which gives the river and estuary a peculiar brownish-red color. Take a leisurely, one-hour ride on a comfortable riverboat along the waterways.

During the coach drive back to Buenos Aires, you’ll pass through residential areas of Argentina’s capital with some free time to stroll around San Isidro — one of the few remaining areas where style and romanticism are still proudly on display.

Your tour ends at Ezeiza International Airport in time for your flight.

Notes: This tour is available only to guests whose cruise ends in Buenos Aires with flights after 5pm.

Our guide had some of the same information that yesterday’s guide did but she did dwell more on the sorry state of Argentina’s economy. Yet, she would get distracted too – she’d start a dark tale of the dictatorship and then “look – a tree!”

We didn’t exactly follow the itinerary of the description. We headed first to the San Isidro area. We traveled down the street Ave del Libertador for a long way. At first, we went through neighborhoods that all the houses had razor wire and spiked windows. The streets were narrow too. Once, the bus driver had to get a patrolperson to go tell the owner of a car that it had to be moved so he could get the bus down the road.

Eventually, the road came to more upscale neighborhoods that had lots of restaurants and Mercedes and Peugeot dealerships. Didn’t see any more razor wire but a bigger police presence. Lots of dog walkers too. One person I counted had 10 dogs he was walking.

Stopped at a Cathedral. We were told we could go inside but they were having some sort of service, so we stayed outside. It began to rain lightly. We were able to walk over to the square and admire the statues.

Eventually, we arrived at the canal port. The tour boat was comfortable, had air conditioning, a working toilet, and sold drinks and snacks. It reminded me of the ones in Amsterdam. Once we left the dock area, you were free to move about and even go on the outside deck.

The ride was pleasant. We passed some rowers and the rowing club. This area the guide said was mostly for vacationers from the City who wanted to spend time in nature. However, some people were year-round residents. We waved at children who were out of their docks. It was a pleasant way to spend an hour. Some of the places were very nice. Others not so much.

Once we got back from the boat tour, we had 25 minutes to get something to eat at the little shopping area at the dock. We made the mistake of ordering at a bar & grill. It took a while for it to cook so we had to take it with us on the bus. Just around a corner was a McDonald’s that we could have gone to, but we hadn’t seen it. I have to say though that the hamburger from the grill was better than McDonald’s.

Once we were back on the bus, we headed straight to the airport on the interstate. The skies opened up and we had a downpour. I thought it might slow the traffic down but that was not the case. We arrived at the airport at 2:00.

Our luggage was all in a covered area outside of Terminal A. Of course, Delta flyers were going out of Terminal C. Once we found our three pieces amidst all of the luggage, we could have gotten one of those carts and pushed our luggage to the Terminal across the airport. However, a nice young man with the porter company offered to load it on the cart and push it for us. He didn’t speak much English, but he recognized Chuck’s Georgia shirt as “Number 1 American Football.” He walked us all the way to the correct gate in the terminal. He accepted US money as a tip and seemed pleased.

It was quite a long walk from Terminal A to Terminal C. I didn’t see anyone assisting with wheelchairs so I’m not sure what the passengers who may have needed one did.

It was now going on 3:00, there were some of our fellow Delta flyers already seated. Some of us were on the 9:15 flight to Atlanta. Others were on the 11:00 flight to JFK (although they got a notice that it would be 1:00 a.m. before they left). However, right now, the gate area was closed to all, and nobody could tell us exactly when it would open. This did not bode well.

SA: Buenos Aires, Argentina

Wednesday, February 1, 2023

We were docked in an industrial area that was already hard at work when we got up at 8:00. I went to get our coffee since today will be the last day we can get it from the Coffee Bar. You know you’ve come to the end of the cruise when the Coffee Bar has run out of large To Go cups. To compensate, they put two shots of espresso into a small To Go cup.

We ate a very light breakfast in the Lido because we certainly didn’t want to not be hungry for our HAL tour today entitled “A Culinary Walk through Buenos Aires: In Partnership with Food & Wine Magazine.” The description states ” With its exciting culinary scene, Buenos Aires is a city that is a delight for foodies and anyone who loves a good meal. On this food tour with a small group of like-minded travelers (8 to 20 people), visit some of its authentic restaurants.

Argentina is known for its amazing meats, which are central to the diet here, making this outing a great choice for carnivores.

Your day begins with a guided panoramic drive through Buenos Aires, taking in highlights such as Plaza de Mayo — the city’s most famous square. You’ll drive down Avenida 9 de Julio — the wide thoroughfare named in honor of Argentina’s Independence Day. You’ll also pass the beautiful parks of Palermo — one of the city’s most buzzing neighborhoods.

A culinary walking tour leads you through a traditional neighborhood packed with locally-owned restaurants. Along the way, your guide will talk about the history of the places you visit, sharing stories of life, past and present, in this great city.

At three distinctive restaurants, you’ll savor a true taste of Buenos Aires. Try empanadas, choripan (sausage with French baguette), barbecued meats, grilled provoleta cheese and chimichurri — a dipping sauce of fresh herbs, garlic and peppers. A glass of Argentine red wine is included with lunch.

For dessert, a heladeria offers homemade ice cream.

Portions are small at each stop but, by the end of the tour, you will be full and you will have a newfound appreciation for the life and food of Argentina.

Notes: Wear comfortable walking shoes and dress for the weather.

We met at the main stage at 10:00. When they called our tour number about 40 people stood up. I thought “this doesn’t look like a small group.” Once we got outside, we were directed to a shuttle bus as we were not allowed to walk through the industrial port. The shuttle took us to the waiting tour buses outside of the industrial port. Because the ship was going to be here overnight, they announced that the shuttle buses would run all night long.

Once we reached the tour buses, we were divided into two groups of twenty. We were on a very comfortable bus but the guide’s microphone didn’t work and she had to talk very loudly for all to hear. She spoke English well and she did the best she could to talk loudly.

She gave us a lot of interesting information about Buenos Aires and Argentina. What I found especially interesting is what she said about the Falklands which she always referred to as the Malvinas. She said she was in College before she knew that Argentina did not control the Malvinas and that other people knew them as the Falklands.

She told us that we would be going to three different restaurants – two for appetizers and one for the main meal. She said we would meet up with the other tour group at the main meal. Then, we would all go to a gelato parlor.

First, we had a nice overview of the city as she talked.

Guide called it Shanty Town – near the port – she said don’t go there.
Railroad Station – No longer used. Trying to decide what to do with it.
Lots of old buildings
Lots of new buildings
Statues everywhere
Obelisk Monument – Built in 1910 to celebrate 400th anniversary of Buenos Aires
Floralis Genérica is a sculpture made of steel and aluminum – a gift to the city by the Argentine architect Eduardo Catalano.

The bus dropped us off near the first restaurant. We had empanadas and your choice of beer, soft drink, or water. I thought the beer was good and asked what kind it was thinking it was a local beer – Heineken. Okay. The empanada was full-size and very good. I thought we were supposed to get small portions.

As we walked to the next restaurant, we passed the other tour group going to our restaurant.

We sat outside at our next restaurant, and I forgot to get the name. We first created our own Gancio Batido – similar to a pisco sour. Mixed Gancio liquor with pressurized seltzer water and served over large ice cubes. They were very good if you like a lemon flavor.

They served it with a choripan with two types of sauces.

Our next restaurant we met up with the other group and all sat inside. Your choice of drinks was Malbec, a white wine, or water. We were first served a grilled provolone cheese. Then we were served a skirt steak. Next, we were served steak sirloin. There was so much food. The servers kept pouring the wine.

After we were finished, I just knew I would not be able to eat another bite. The bus picked us up and the guide reminded us that our last stop was for gelato. Okay. I would find room.

We were each able to get two scoops. I knew at least one flavor would be dulce del leche (sweet milk). Our cruise director, Kevin, who is from Argentina, mentioned that we need to try dulce de leche at least once while we are in Buenos Aires.

The guide also told us to get at least one scoop with the flavor. I got one scoop of traditional dulce de leche and one scoop of Patagonia vanilla with fruit. The dulce de leche tasted like a light caramel flavor to me. They were both very good. Chuck had finished his before I thought to get a photo of it.

The guide told some more interesting stories about Buenos Aires on the way back to the port but there were a lot of people (me included) trying to keep their eyes open after all that food. I heard some people say they had another tour that evening that was going to include another meal. I would not have been able to handle it. I just know I needed a nap. This was an excellent tour.

Travel Trivia

Buenos Aires, Argentina

Tango, a distinctive dance and the corresponding musical style of tango music, began in the working-class port neighborhoods of Buenos Aires.

The city has the busiest live theatre industry in Latin America, with scores of theaters and productions. Typically, every weekend, there are about 300 active theatres with plays, a number that places the city as first worldwide, more than either London, New York or Paris.

The University of Buenos Aires, one of the top learning institutions in South America, has produced five Nobel Prize winners and provides taxpayer-funded education for students from all around the globe.

Buenos Aires has the highest concentration of soccer teams of any city in the world.

Buenos Aires has been a candidate city for the Summer Olympic Games on three occasions but has never been the host. In 1956, it lost by one vote to Melbourne.

Avenida 9 de Julio is the widest street in the world at an imposing sixteen lanes. It typically takes at least 2 traffic light rotations to cross.

There are two theories as to why the Casa Rosada, the presidential headquarters where Juan and Eva Perón addressed the nation, is painted pink. The first is that it represented the coming together of two political parties in the late 19th century, one of which was represented by the color red, the other white. The other more gruesome theory is that it’s actually cow’s blood, which was a common coating for buildings at the time. The blood protected against the damaging effects of heat and humidity.

Built in 1913, the Buenos Aires Underground is the oldest subway system in Latin America. The stations display artwork and even have musical performances.