VOV: Dublin, Ireland

Thursday, July 28, 2022

We decided to have an early dinner in the Lido and go to the early show in the main stage. The Lido was featuring a Dutch corner. I got a plate of bitterballen and some cheese. And, in the fruit section, I found a huge container of cherries. Both the Dutch food and the cherries were a great surprise.

Tonight’s performer was a comedian named Chris Pendleton. We typically go to the late show because it is not as crowded as the earlier show, but our tour in Dublin was starting early. The comedian was a woman from South Carolina. We thought she was very funny. I’m glad we went as she said she was leaving the ship in Dublin, and this was her only performance evening.

We went to a set of the Ocean Bar band. We recognized a couple on the dance floor from our South Pacific cruise. We had not seen them before now, so we assumed they had embarked in Rotterdam. When Chuck spoke with them, they said “yes” they had been that cruise and they had embarked in Rotterdam. Turns out that they had been on a river cruise and were taking this ship back to Boston to come home. Beats another transatlantic flight.

They make the fourth couple we know from the South Pacific cruise and there is one couple from the December Caribbean cruise. Cruising can be a small world.

Got up at 5:00. Breakfast was delivered at 6:00. Today is a tender port and we had to meet at the main stage at 7:00. In 2019, we were able to dock in an industrial port.

We were on another HAL tour today – “Dublin Highlights.” The last time we were here we took a HOHO bus around Dublin so I knew we would be seeing most, if not all, of the same sites. However, this tour featured a visit to the Book of Kells in Trinity College. You can see the Book on your own, but you have to get an appointment. This tour guaranteed we would get to see it. The description:

Head into the heart of bustling Dublin — Ireland’s capital city — rich in history and surprisingly energetic.

panoramic drive through the wide streets brings you to the Customs House on the north bank of the River Liffey. Many mid-18th-century public buildings grace this area and Dublin’s south side.

At Trinity College, you’ll visit the library that holds the famous Book of Kells — a hand-illuminated manuscript of the gospels. Your sightseeing tour of the city continues past Merrion and Fitzwilliam Squares, the National Gallery and the wonderful St Stephen’s Green. You will see Dublin Castle, City Hall, Christ Church Cathedral and St Patrick’s Cathedral.

At Phoenix Park, Europe’s largest enclosed public park, view the homes of Ireland’s president and the US Ambassador.

Along the River Liffey, you’ll see the Four Courts (Ireland’s courts of justice) and the International Financial Services Centre before returning to the ship.

Guests who wish to stay in town to shop or explore independently are welcome to do so but must make their own way back to the ship.

Was kind of rough waters in the tender but not as bad as the day in Djupivogur, Iceland. We were escorted to the bus and we were quickly on our way. We were all surprised that there was very little traffic. The guide said she thought it was because schools were out for the summer, and many people were still working from home.

She told us that a lot of new jobs in technology, pharmaceuticals, and finance were being created in Ireland, especially Dublin, because of the excellent Internet coverage and tax advantages. However, it had caused a housing shortage in Dublin. Companies, such as Google, were buying up houses and building apartments just for their current and future employees.

As we drove past important places of Dublin including, but not limited to, Ambassador Row, the statue of Oscar Wilde, the National Gallery of Ireland, and the Irish Flame – a monument to the Irish lost in the peace-keeping efforts by the United Nations, the guide kept up a non-stop commentary about the sites we were seeing.

We had a photo stop in front of some original Georgian homes. The guide said that wrought iron was invented in Dublin. The houses all looked alike but the doors were different so if the man of the house came home drunk, he could recognize his house.

We stopped for a photo and restroom break at Phoenix Park / Botanical Gardens. The park was created for the King to hunt deer but was soon turned into protected land. There are approximately 500 deer who reside in the park. We had time to walk through the kitchen garden. Growing all sorts of fruits and vegetables, along with flowers.

We saw the cross that in 1979 Pope John Paul officiated a mass. We passed by the Guiness Factory, once the largest employer but now have more robots than workers. We passed over the River Liffey and saw the home of the President of Ireland.

Our last stop was Trinity College. The bus dropped us off and the guide showed us where it would pick us up. We lined up at our designated waiting area until it was time to go in. I noticed a sign notifying people that all tickets had sold out for that day. If you hadn’t pre-ordered a ticket, you were out of luck.

The guide said we had an hour and a half to see the Book exhibit and the Old Library. If we finished early, there were gift shops, etc. near the bus.

We first went inside a large room that had information and paintings on the wall about the Book. It was crowded but not overwhelming.

Facts about the Book of Kells (provided by Trinity College brochure and information from the guide):

Created by Early Christian monks around 800 AD.

It is an illuminated manuscript written in Latin containing the four gospels of the New Testament.

Regarded as Ireland’s finest national treasure.

Pages are made from vellum (calf-skin prepared for writing). Writing instruments were peacock feathers.

Arsenic sulphide was used to produce a vibrant yellow-gold pigment. Other colors were made from vegetables and fruit.

A three-dimensional effect was created in parts of the Book by layering pigments on top of a ground layer.

They change the pages on exhibit every three months.

We were eventually allowed to enter the room with the Book. It, of course, was under glass and there was a guard in the room. Nobody was allowed to take any photos. I thought the crowd was polite, letting everyone get a turn at admiring the Book. Outside of the room, there was a copy of the book so people could take a photo to show the dimensions of it.

I thought this gorgeous piece of history was fascinating.

Our next stop was The Long Room which is the main chamber of the Old Library. It is approximately 213 feet in length and is filled with over 200,000 of the Library’s oldest books and are still in use for students and scholars. It was also the model for the Great Room in Hogwarts (if you don’t know what Hogwarts is, please read all the Harry Potter books – you won’t be disappointed).

Facts about the Long Room (provided by Trinity College brochure and the guide):

The barrel-vaulted ceiling was added to allow space for more books when existing shelves became full.

Lining the central walkway of the Long Room are marble busts of famous philosophers and writers. The first bust was commissioned in 1743.

Included in the collections on permanent display is a copy of the 1916 Proclamation of the Irish Republic and the 15th Century ‘Brian Boru’ harp – Ireland’s national symbol.

Famous readers have included Oscar Wilde, Samuel Beckett, and Bram Stoker.

As a lover of books, I was very impressed with this Library.

It seemed too soon that our time was up, and we had to make our way back to the bus. I would have liked to have found a Book of Kells ornament, but none were to be found.

We arrived back to the port area at 1:00. We were the last ones on the waiting tender so that was nice. We didn’t have to sit on a bobbing tender waiting for it to fill up. The water was still rough and we hit one wave that it splashed through one of the open windows. Got some unfortunate people wet but not me.

We dropped our backpacks off in the room and headed for lunch in the Lido. Then Chuck, who had been yawning all morning, laid down for a nap. I got our dirty laundry ready to send out and worked on more photos. The afternoon flew by.

FLOWERS of DUBLIN

Travel Trivia

Dublin, Ireland

Dublin was established as a Viking settlement in the 10th century and, despite a number of attacks by the native Irish, it remained largely under Viking control until the Norman invasion of Ireland was launched from Wales in 1169.

Dublin’s sheltered location on the east coast makes it the driest place in Ireland.

The Dublin City Council manages over 3,700 acres of parks. The Phoenix Park is about 2 miles west of the city center, north of the River Liffey. Its 10-mile perimeter wall encloses 1,750 acres, making it one of the largest walled city parks in Europe. It includes large areas of grassland and tree-lined avenues, and since the 17th century has been home to a herd of wild fallow deer.

Dublin is the largest center of education in Ireland and is home to four universities and several other higher education institutions. Its University of Dublin is the oldest university in Ireland, dating from the 16th century, and is in the city center.

Dublin has a significant literary history, and produced many literary figures, including Nobel laureates William Butler Yeats, George Bernard Shaw and Samuel Beckett. Other influential writers and playwrights include Oscar Wilde, Jonathan Swift and Bram Stoker.

Handel’s classic “Messiah” was premiered for the first time on 13 April 1742 in Dublin at the New Music Hall in Fishamble Street. It received its London premiere almost a year later.

Dublin’s Oldest Traffic Light is situated beside the Renault garage in Clontarf. The light, which is still in full working order, was installed in 1893 outside the home of Fergus Mitchell who was the owner of the first car in Ireland.

Dublin has the youngest population in all of Europe. Approximately 50-percent of the population is less than 25-years of age. The legal drinking age is 18 and Dubliners drink a total of 9800 pints an hour between the hours of 5.30 pm on a Friday and 3.00 am the following Monday.

Monday, June 10 – HOHO thru Dublin

Was up at 5:30 and breakfast was delivered at 7:00. Even though the menu is limited, the food has been very good and the service prompt. I always tip the delivery person. It is not required but I think it is a nice gesture. We always get a phone call about an hour after delivery to be sure we were pleased with everything. I think it is also their way of knowing that they can come and collect the dishes/tray. You cannot put them out in the hallway as they are a trip hazard.

We were ready to get off the ship at 8:30. A local person from the Dublin tourism office was stationed near the exit on our floor handing out maps and giving advice. I asked him about the Hop-On/Hop-Off bus station location. He said that we could get on one of their busses just around the corner from where HAL would be dropping us off or we could take a cab to the main station. He even mentioned there would be a free shuttle that would take us right outside the port gates where the majority of cabs would be waiting.

I already had the HOHO bus tickets as I purchased them online for a 10% discount. We had decided to ride the entire route first and then on the second loop decided where we wanted to get off.

Map in hand, we got off the ship and there were several representatives talking to people. Asked about the free shuttle out of the port. Nope – no free shuttle. Where are the cabs? Not here yet. When will they arrive? No idea. Want to get on the HAL shuttle for $15 each? Next one will be arriving shortly. Yes (sigh). I told them they should go tell the Dublin rep that his information was wrong.

Was a double-decker bus that would take us to downtown Dublin so we took the stairs to the top and sat in the front for the view. What a ride. Disconcerting to be on the wrong side of the road and Scotland and Ireland like their roundabouts. Cars cutting in and out. Then we got into Dublin where the streets are narrow to begin with and then the cars parked on them made it worse. Our driver took one road and a local person on a bike started waving his hands and pointing to the upcoming bridge. We were obviously too tall to go under the bridge. The driver had to make a 3 point turn to go back. Couldn’t believe he made the turn without hitting any of the cars.

One thing the Dublin rep got right was that there were several HOHO bus representatives handing out brochures about their companies. I showed them I already had tickets and they pointed us in the right direction. We went around the corner and there was a bus. However, it was not the bus but a portable office that would exchange me online tickets for real tickets. Said the next bus would be there shortly.

We waited and waited. The traffic was very slow. One woman started yelling at the men saying she had been waiting over 30 minutes. She was very loud. She was American (sigh). They called their front office who told them to use that bus and they would send another office bus. We loaded just as another HOHO bus did pull up. She ended up getting off our bus and getting on that one. She wanted to use the headphones. Not sure why, as those busses were meant for people who didn’t speak English and could hear the commentary in their language through the headphones. Maybe she didn’t hear well and thought the headphones would help. I hope English was a choice on the headphones because she would not be happy.

Our driver spoke English (albeit with the thick Irish accent) and we could hear just fine upstairs. He was funny and informative. We began at Stop 10 which was across the street from the Oscar Wilde statue and National Gallery. There were 33 stops on this tour. We passed by sights such as Trinity College, Parliament, Dublin Castle, Christ Church Cathedral, St. Patrick’s Cathedral, the Guinness Storehouse, the US Ambassador’s residence, and the Dublin President’s residence. There were many statues throughout the city.

It had been raining off and on all morning. Sometimes just a drizzle but at other times pretty hard. It looked like it was going to stay that way all day.

When we got to Stop One, we had to get off as this driver would be on his lunch break. We could either get on another bus immediately or later. I had to go to the bathroom so we went inside the main bus office, but they directed us to the McDonald’s next door.

I noticed that when you see a McDonald’s, you will see a Burger King not far from it. And both are always crowded. Even with all the restaurants, take-away places (we call them take-out), and pubs, people were lined up at McDonald’s and BK. Go figure.

Got to the restroom and found a sign that said punch in your code from your receipt. (Clever – McD’s). Chuck went right on into the men’s room. Now, I really have to go. Other ladies come up behind me and they don’t have a receipt either. I wait for Chuck to come out and tell him to hold the door for me. He waits outside while I use the men’s room. He had to tell a couple of guys they had to wait. They were not too happy. Sorry. But desperate times calls for desperate measures. Not sure what happened to the ladies who were behind me.

On the way to the Stop One, I had spotted a chalkboard sign outside a pub that listed traditional Irish dishes. Of course, I didn’t see the name of the pub. We started walking back the way we came and finally, after a couple of wrong turns, found it – O’Connell’s Pub. It looked small from the outside but when you entered, you realized that it went way back and even had a downstairs. We sat at a table for 2 next to a Canadian man and his adult daughter who were in Ireland visiting his sister. We enjoyed chatting with them.

I ordered a Bulmer’s hard apple cider and the fish chowder and Chuck ordered a Guinness and the Beef and Guinness Casserole (looked like beef stew to me). Each order came with some thick, coarse, brown bread and real butter. It was all so good. I didn’t care for the Guinness but Chuck said it was so much better than what is bottled and sent to the States. We asked what fish was in the chowder and the waiter had to go ask the Chef what was caught that day – salmon and haddock.

Speaking of Guinness, you quickly learned that you do not disparage a Guinness in Dublin. The company practically built Dublin and is still a huge part of the economy. We heard many stories from the drivers involving Arthur Guinness who started brewing beer in 1759 and has a 9,999 year lease on the property. You see the Harp logo around the city quite a bit. The Guinness harp motif is modeled on the Trinity College Harp. It was adopted in 1862. Harps have been a symbol of Ireland at least since the reign of Henry VIII. Guinness registered their harp as a trademark shortly after the passing of the Trade Marks Registration Act of 1875. It faces right instead of left, and so can be distinguished from the Irish coat of arms.

We left there and decided to do some souvenir shopping since our tours for the next few days probably would not leave time for such. I found a Guinness Christmas ornament and Chuck found a Game of Thrones t-shirt “I drink and I know things” – Tyrion Lannister. For you Game of Thrones fans, you will understand why he had to buy that shirt.

We were ready to get back on the next HOHO bus to finish up stops 1 through 10. This driver was even funnier than the last one. When we got to Stop 10, we decided that the lines were too long and the crowds too many to go around again and get off at the stops. I had made some good pictures and the only thing I had really wanted to see was the “Book of Kells” at Trinity College.

From Wikipedia – The Book of Kells is an illuminated manuscript Gospel book in Latin, containing the four Gospels of the New Testament together with various prefatory texts and tables. It was created in a monastery in either Britain or Ireland. It is believed to have been created c. 800 AD. The text of the Gospels is largely drawn from the Vulgate, although it also includes several passages drawn from the earlier versions of the Bible known as the Vetus Latina. It is a masterwork of Western calligraphy and represents the pinnacle of Insular illumination. It is also widely regarded as Ireland’s finest national treasure.

To see it, you had to make a timed reservation online. Since I really didn’t know what time we would be arriving at Trinity College on the HOHO, I didn’t make one. If I had made it too soon, we would have missed it. If I made it later, we would have been standing around in the rain. I heard later that it was so crowded you didn’t really get to study it for very long. Maybe a future visit.

We got off at Stop 10 and walked around the corner to find several busses lined up along the street. We kept walking up the street until we found the one marked “Prinsendam shuttle.” We gave the driver our return tickets and found a seat, again on the top. The ride back was not as crazy as the ride to Dublin.

We definitely got a good overview of Dublin and enjoyed the tour.

Got back in time to go to the Ocean’s Bar and dance a little to the music played by the Ocean’s Trio. I looked at the main dining room dinner menu and didn’t see anything that I particularly wanted. The Lido was featuring “Irish Dinner” so we decided that we would eat there instead. We both enjoyed the Fish and Chips and the stone crab claws (until Chuck cut his thumb on one). I was surprised to see that the Lido was not crowded at all. Since we were not leaving port until 10:30, I guess many stayed ashore to eat in Dublin.

We went back to the Ocean’s Bar. We had decided that we were going to attend the Celtic Storm show. The ship was bringing a local group aboard for one show of traditional Irish music and dance. The show would be at 9:30 in the Showroom. At 8:00, we noticed that more and more people were heading to the Showroom.

It is a small Showroom but we have never had a problem getting seats at the 9:00 show. However, people who attend the 7:00 show, say that the Showroom is crowded. Since there was only going to be one show tonight, we decided to go ahead and see how crowded it was getting.

Good grief. I am glad we came on in. We found seats fairly near the front with a decent view. We talked with others around us as more and more people came in. By 9:30, it was standing-room only.

The group put on a great show. I was impressed with the teenagers in the band that could play so well. One girl had a wonderful voice and she got a solo. Another girl could play the violin, the accordion, and could dance the Irish dances (think a lot of Riverdancing). The show lasted an hour and was well worth attending. They received an enthusiastic standing ovation.

Tomorrow is Belfast and we have an early independent tour to the Giant’s Causeway. I hope the weather will be decent. It is calling for just partly cloudy skies. As the casino is closed all day/night today because of the long port hours, we both called it a night.

Tonight’s towel animal is an elephant.

Trinity College
St. Patrick
English Lion, Scottish Unicorn, and the Irish Harp
Respect the Guinness