Tag: Antarctica

SA: Fourth Sea Day

Wednesday, January 25, 2023

Once I woke up from my nap, I went to find Chuck. He was in the middle of a hot poker game. Not wanting to interrupt a winning streak, I went over to the Piano Bar venue to order a drink and listen to some music.

HAL calls this area now Billboard Onboard and there are usually two piano players/singers performing. Typically, this area is very crowded in the evenings with many people in the audience singing along. At this time of the evening, the music was just piped in.

HAL’s Bloody Mary is always a work of art

Once the poker game broke up, we went to the main dining room for dinner. We were seated at a table for six tonight. The service was a bit chaotic. Nobody at our table got the correct appetizer. After the 3rd person said, “that’s not what I ordered – we just all started laughing.” I know the poor server was flustered. I just think they put the wrong table number on the tray. They brought out another tray of plates and all was correct.

Chuck and I each ordered the veal cordon bleu. He really enjoyed his. I thought mine was a little tough and chewy.

We played some slots until it was time for Daniel Ka’s second magic show of the cruise. I thought it was better than the first show.

After his show was over, we went to the last two sets of the Rolling Stone Lounge band. It was after midnight and was dark. We are moving north.

I slept later than usual and woke up to sunny skies and calmer seas. While I drank my coffee, I watched the Captain’s video discussing the predicted weather and wave conditions for the Falklands. The cruise before ours was not able to tender into the island. He seemed optimistic that we would be able to make it.

We went to the main dining room for breakfast. Chuck splurged on the steak and egg breakfast which has an upcharge.

After breakfast, Chuck went to the hot tub. I went to Jim’s presentation on the Falklands. I then watched the Cruise Director’s talk on Port Stanley that he gave yesterday but was now on the room television. We have a tour scheduled tomorrow but it doesn’t’ start until 11:00. I wanted to go early and walk around the town before the tour started so I wanted to hear his tips on what to do.

Since I wanted to be on an early tender tomorrow, I went by Guest Services to be sure I understood the process. In the past, 4 & 5 star mariners were told to go to a particular room to pick up our tender tickets (if we weren’t on a HAL tour) or wanted to go over before the tour started. However, on this trip, Guest Services confirmed that we would just show our room key at the Gangway and would be allowed to get on a tender without a ticket. I hope they were correct. Wouldn’t be the first time I’ve received incorrect information.

Once I met with Guest Services, I strolled a mile around the Promenade deck hoping I would see some dolphins or seals, but I didn’t.

Met Chuck at the Dive-In Hamburger/Hot dog place on the Lido deck near the pool. There is also a taco bar near this venue. We found a table near the pool. It was pleasant and people were sunning themselves. The ship had the cover partially open so a slight breeze could come in. When it is completely closed, the area can get stuffy. But at least you can still enjoy the area even when it is raining.

Statue at one end of Lido pool

I got a hotdog with fries and Chuck made himself a taco salad.

We spent a pleasant afternoon getting some sun and reading. The time passed quickly.

SA: Antarctic Experience Day 4

Tuesday, January 24, 2023

When we I came back to the room, I discovered that our room steward had delivered our Mariner Delft tile (gift given to HAL cruisers). In the past, we have received these tiles at an appreciation luncheon. I assume there will be no appreciation luncheon on this cruise. I don’t know if HAL has done away with these luncheons or there are just not enough sea days in this cruise to have one.

We went to the Gallery Bar for a drink before we arrived at the Pinnacle Grill for our meal. This restaurant is the HAL steakhouse and is an upcharge. Our meal was included in our booking promotion. For the price, you get an appetizer, entree, sides, and a dessert. In the past, you could get multiple appetizers, but HAL recently implemented an extra charge for more than one appetizer. I heard some grumbling, but I didn’t think the upcharge was that bad and it saves on food waste.

While we were waiting for our food, we talked to a couple at the next table. Found out they were also signed up for the same 2024 Alaska cruise that we are. Small world.

I ordered the shrimp cocktail, lobster, asparagus, and key lime pie (tasted more like cheesecake), and coffee.

Chuck ordered the crab cakes, filet mignon and lobster tail, mashed potatoes, and a cheese plate.

Chuck had to help me eat my key lime pie and he ended up boxing up his cheese plate to bring back to the room. I’m glad we didn’t order an extra appetizer. We would have been way too full.

Because of the strong coffee, I was able to stay up instead of going face down in a food coma. Since we had seen the mainstage show “Off the Charts” more than once, we just went to the Rolling Stone Lounge for their last two sets before saying good night.

I did not fall asleep right away like I expected. I guess the strong coffee that allowed me to go to the Rolling Stone Lounge ended up keeping me awake until well after midnight. Even when I went to sleep, it was a restless sleep.

I woke up at 7:00 and thought we would be in another calm bay with icebergs. Instead, we were in open rough seas, and it was very foggy.

The Captain announced that it would be about 1:00 before we arrived at Elephant Island. According to Wikipedia, Elephant Island is an ice-covered, mountainous island in the outer reaches of the South Shetland Islands, in the Southern Ocean. It got its name either because of the number of elephant seals found there or because some say its shape is that of an elephant head.

Google photo – Elephant Island

We were going there because of its historical aspect regarding Ernest Shackleton. According to Wikipedia, Shackleton and his crew were lost at sea when their ship the HMS Endurance went down and they spent months in lifeboats. They all eventually arrived at Elephant Island. Shackleton realized that they had little chance of being discovered by a passing ship, so he took a small crew in a lifeboat for help. Miraculously, four and a half months later, Shackleton and crew returned with a ship and rescued all 22 men.

The Captain wanted to circle the Island so we could see how stark it was and get an appreciation of what the crew had to endure.

We were in the Lido just finishing lunch when we arrived at Elephant Island. I went back to the room and got my winter gear on and my camera. I went to the Promenade deck on the starboard side and tried to go out the door to the deck. The wind on the starboard side was so strong that I couldn’t push the door open. Another guest said to try the port side as the wind wasn’t holding the door closed on that side of the ship.

I was able to open the portside door and step out on the deck intending to walk around to the starboard side for some photos. Just as I took my first step, a wind gust pushed me back a few steps before I could brace myself. Okay, that’s not good. Then, a big spray from the waves came over the railing and hit me full in the face. Okay, Mother Nature, I got the message. I’m going back inside.

I went back to the room to get out of the wet coat and cap and dry my face, hair, and camera. I wasn’t in the room long before the Captain announced that due to worsening conditions, we would be heading away from Elephant Island. I never did get a photo.

Google photo – Elephant Island

We were now headed to the Falkland Islands. Kind of an inauspicious way to end our amazing time in Antarctica but as the Captain reiterated as we sailed away “we got the true Antarctic experience.” Yes, we definitely did.

Now that I was warm and dry, I debated whether to download my photos or take a nap. The nap won.

Travel Trivia

Antarctica

Antarctica is bigger than Europe and almost double the size of Australia.

Because it experiences such little rain, Antarctica is considered a desert.

Antarctica is home to several volcanoes and two of them are active.

In 1978 Emilio Palma became the first document child to have been born in Antarctica.

Researchers have estimated that 40-50 million years ago, temperatures in Antarctica reached up to 63 degrees. Scientists have also found fossils showing that Antarctica was once covered with verdant green forests and inhabited by dinosaurs.

Hiding under the Antarctic ice is an entire lake: Lake Vostok is a pristine freshwater lake buried beneath 2.5 miles of solid ice. It is about the size of Lake Ontario and is the largest of the 200 liquid lakes strewn around the continent under the ice.

Antarctica has a peculiar group of fish called the ice fish. These have no red pigment – hemoglobin – in their blood to carry oxygen around. They get by without it because the temperature is so low and oxygen dissolves better in cold temperatures. They just have a larger volume of clear blood instead and this gives them an unusually ghostly white color, particularly their gills.

Google photo

Antarctica’s geography and climate means it gets a special kind of wind called katabatics. These are winds that are formed when air moves down a slope. In Antarctica, the mountain range paired against large, flat expanses makes for a dramatic wind combination. Some of the highest wind speeds in history have been recorded on the southern continent.

To be called an iceberg the chunk of ice must reach at least 16.5 feet above the water. Smaller floating ice pieces are called bergy bits (3 to 16 feet), growlers (less than 3 feet) or brash ice (small pieces that crackle as they melt and ancient air escapes).

SA: Antarctica Experience Day 3

Monday, January 23, 2023

We ate in the Lido again to be ready for the Casino drawing. I had a noodle bowl with lamb. Chuck had some breaded haddock. We both went to the salad bar for salads. I like that HAL creates your salad for you instead of everyone handling the serving tongs and spoons. They have a lot of ingredients for your salad choices. My favorites – artichokes, dried cranberries, and blue cheese crumbles.

Tonight, the Casino did call Chuck’s name and he won $50.00 for playing the game. Glad we were there.

Tonight’s entertainment on the main stage was the BBC film: Blue Planet II. We have seen it a number of times so we skipped it tonight. We chose to go to the Rolling Stone Lounge. Shelby Sikes, the lead female singer, does a wonderful rendition of Tennessee Whiskey.

At 11:00 pm we called it a night. It was still very light outside.

This morning was overcast but it was not snowing. By the time we finished breakfast, we were in Wilhelmina Bay (named after Queen Wilhelmina) but many people call it Whale – mina Bay. We were not disappointed.

Only time I got a photo of a mouth

One whale got particularly close to the ship.

They were vocal today also.

We also had some icebergs pass by that were taller than the ship.

My Fitbit indicated I had walked over 4 miles just walking around on the Promenade deck today. I needed the exercise in order to be ready for our Pinnacle Grill meal tonight. Time to get ready.

SA: Antarctic Experience Day 2 (part 3)

Sunday, January 22, 2023

After a lunch of tomato bisque and a three-cheese grilled sandwich, I was ready to get back outside. Saw two unexpected sights right before we got to Cuverville Island and the Errera Channel – a pod of orcas and a motorized sailboat. The orcas were fast so only got a photo of the last one. I would not have wanted to sail these waters in such a small boat.

We were not the only ship in the area. There were several expedition ships and they had tenders and zodiacs taking people back and forth to the land.

Viking cruise ship
tender
zodiac
Hurtigruten cruise ship

Finally saw some birds flying –

And more icebergs –

As much as I would have liked to keep staying outside, it was time to get ready for the evening activities.

SA: Antarctic Experience Day 2 (part 2)

Sunday, January 22, 2023

We left Paradise Bay and made our way to Neko Harbor. It was still snowing heavily. The ship was having to cut through a lot of what the Captain called “pancake ice.” Wikipedia defines pancake ice as a form ofĀ sea iceĀ that consists of round pieces ofĀ iceĀ that will fuse together. The diameters can range from 12 inches (30 centimeters) to 9 feet (3 meters) with thicknesses up to 4 inches (10 centimeters) depending on the local conditions. It forms as a result of wave action onĀ slushĀ or ice rind.

Right before lunch, a big iceberg came floating by with a bunch of Gentoo penguins and some sort of sea bird riding on it. However, as it got closer to the ship, many of the penguins jumped off. A few brave souls and the bird never jumped and just sailed on by.

Sea bird is at the far left
Making their way to jump off
Fewer still (bird still there)
Then there were three (and the bird)

Swimming away –

More icebergs –

We’d already seen so much and it was just early afternoon. Our next stop would be to circle Cuverville Island. Time for a late lunch.

SA: Antarctic Experience Day 2

Sunday, January 22, 2023

We decided to eat in the Lido for dinner because Chuck wanted to be sure he was at the Casino when they called names for the drawing. I had the spicy shrimp, and he had some shrimp and some roast beef.

We made it to the Casino in time for the drawing but unfortunately Chuck’s name was not called. There will be another drawing tomorrow night.

We went to the last set of the Rolling Stone Lounge band before calling it a night.

I thought it snowed heavily yesterday but that was nothing compared to the snowy conditions we had today. The Captain allowed people to go out on the bow but he cautioned everyone about slippery conditions. The crew did their best to keep it swept and shoveled off. All my photos from today look grainy because of the heavy snow falling.

I was in our room getting into my winter gear when the Captain announced we were entering Paradise Bay and “whales on the port side!” – “whales on the starboard side!” So many whales.

Then he announced that there were Gentoo penguins in the water. (He always sounded as excited as we were.)

And when there wasn’t any marine life to see, the icebergs kept us entertained.

All this excitement and it wasn’t even 10:00 a.m. yet.

SA: Antarctic Experience Day 1

Saturday, January 21, 2023

After drinks in the Gallery Bar and some slots, we went to the main dining room and had another table for two. I chose the carne asada and Chuck had the turkey and dressing.

Afterwards, we played some more slots until Chuck’s poker buddies showed up and I was ready to call it a night. When I got back to the room, I found a gift for Chuck from the Casino – chocolates from the Pinnacle Grill. I thought it was a nice gesture.

My expectations for the weather in the Antarctica peninsula was based on all the brochures I have seen – bright blue, sunny skies with fluffy clouds. Brochures lie. I got up at 7:00 and looked outside – foggy and drizzly. Not sure I was going to be able to see any land. Everything looked grey.

After his very late night, Chuck was not ready to face the morning. I went up for coffee and to breakfast in the Lido. I was surprised that it wasn’t that hard to find a table.

The drizzle soon turned to snow. Everyone was excited. Some of the crew members had never seen snow and rushed outside every chance they got. The Captain said we were getting the “true Antarctic experience.”

Video of snowing on the Sea View deck

The Captain then announced that we were not able to get to Palmer Station because of the conditions but we were now headed into the Lemaire Channel. We were given this information about Palmer Station:

Located on Anvers Island near the Antarctic Peninsula, Palmer Station (64Ā° 46Ā°S, 64Ā° 03Ā°W) is named for Nathaniel B. Palmer, who in 1820 on a sealing expedition in his 47-foot (14-meter) ship the Hero became the first American to record sighting Antarctica. The original station was built in 1965. In 1967, the U.S. Navy began construction of the current larger and more permanent station approximately a mile east of the original site. The first building at the new station, the biology laboratory, opened its doors to science in 1970. Today, two main buildings and several smaller structures make up Palmer Station and provide housing and research facilities for scientists and support personnel. Of the three U.S. Antarctic stations, Palmer is the only one that is accessed routinely during the winter.

Palmer Station has a webcam. Their page also has another camera that is set up to observe an Adelie penguin colony from October through February. Each page refreshes after 15 seconds.

I was taking some landscape photos whenever the fog lifted some. I would have liked to have known how high the mountains were, but they were always shrouded in the clouds.

Then, the Captain announced that there were penguins on land climbing to their colony. The black dots on the white areas are the penguins climbing. The colony was on the rock formation (white dots on the black rocks). Many people were carrying those long camera lenses, so I am sure they got great close-ups. My camera lens is heavy enough. I would not have been able to handle the lenses they had. Thus, I had to make do with dots.

We passed a Quark Expedition ship – The Ocean Adventurer. This cruise line is one that you can book if you want to actually step onto land. This particular ship holds 128 passengers and usually starts its adventure in Buenos Aires, Punta Arenas or Ushuaia. The price I have seen on average for the smallest cabin is $10,000 per person.

We ate lunch in the main dining room today. I splurged and ordered their lobster roll and Cape Cod chips. I flustered the waiter as I guess not many people order it since it has an upcharge. He had to go ask a supervisor about it. I did get it and it was good, not as good as the one I had in Bar Harbor one time, but certainly not as expensive as that one either. However, the chips were regular potato chips – not the thick Cape Cod chips that are typically served with a lobster roll. Of course, I ate them all anyway.

By the afternoon, we were in the Neumayer Channel. I spent the afternoon just like I did the morning – watching the landscape go by, taking photos, and marveling that I was really here.

Not an Expedition ship šŸ™‚

SA: Third Sea Day

Friday, January 20, 2023

We went to the Gallery Bar to play some more table shuffleboard. The score is now 3-2. I’m still hanging on to my lead.

The Gallery Bar is next to the Casino, shows sports on its TV screens, and features interesting artwork. The bar is always busy.

We decided to go to the Lido for dinner. I had a salad and Chuck had a little of the braised beef and the chicken parmigiana.

During dinner, we got an email from Holland America that said our cruise consultant that we have done business with for 15 years was leaving Holland America. Such disappointing news. Even though we never met face to face, we felt like we knew her. We have been assigned a new consultant. I hope she is at least half as friendly and efficient as our previous one.

Also, during dinner, the ship lurched, and some large bowls fell off the serving line. Really loud crash. Our salt shaker fell off of the table but it didnā€™t break. Still in the Drake Passage.

We also saw part of the Lido pool area entrance blocked off and water was sloshing around. We asked an officer what happened, and he said they were swabbing the deck. I call BS on that explanation. Iā€™ve seen them swab decks before and there wasnā€™t that much standing water. The pool was empty and there was way too much water on the deck. I think the pool sloshed over and soaked the deck when the ship lurched, and they emptied the rest of it so it wouldnā€™t happen again.

We played some slots and then went to see Daniel Ka who is a magician and illusionist. He was pretty good. However, there was some strobe lighting that really hurt the eyes went it went off.

Before the show, Kevin, our Cruise Director, told everyone to stop saving seats in the main stage for long periods of times. I mentioned before that the morning and afternoon talks have been very popular and very hard to get a seat unless you go early. Seems that people are going as soon as they get up and putting their stuff ā€“ books, sweaters, etc. in the seats they want and then go about their morning until the time of the lecture. Old people equivalent of putting pool towels on the deck chairs to save them. Tomorrowā€™s talks on penguins and marine mammals will be standing room only so I doubt anyone will heed his admonishment.

Once the show ended, I called it a night. Chuck went back to the casino for some poker.

I really slept well last night. It may have been hard to walk around but the rocking ship helps me sleep. However, at breakfast, I heard about a woman who was tossed out of bed and had to get a couple of stitches on her ear because it hit the bedside table.

The Captain announced that we had passed the 60-degree south latitude at 3:00 a.m. so we were officially in Antarctica waters.

I found a seat for Jim’s presentation on penguins. I didn’t realize how many species of penguins there are.

After the presentation, I worked on some of my photos and then went to the sale in the shops. I found a shirt I liked.

As the afternoon progressed, we got closer to Deception Island, anĀ islandĀ in theĀ South Shetland IslandsĀ close to theĀ Antarctic Peninsula.Ā This island is theĀ calderaĀ of an activeĀ volcano.

The Captain announced that there were Gentoo penguins in the water and on the shore of the island. Everyone rushed out to the decks – me included.

Deception Island –

White dots are the penguins
Lots of penguins
Opening to the Caldera which can act as a harbor – we did not go in

After we finished watching the penguins, it was time to get ready for the evening.

SA: Here We Go!

Monday, January 9, 2023

9:30 a.m. – The long-awaited day is finally here. I am finding it hard to believe. As usual, I won’t really relax until I am on the plane tonight. I tossed and turned all night – not surprising.

12:30 p.m. – Plants watered. Lunch eaten. Hot water heater turned to vacation mode. Cat supplies set out for the sitter. Bags in the trunk. When the bags came rolling through the house, Pumpkin knew it was not a good day for the kitty and he is hiding under the couch. He hates it when his staff leaves and are not available at his beck and call. šŸ˜¾ Time to head for the shuttle service.

2:00 – No delays getting to the shuttle service. There is construction on the main road but it did not slow us down thankfully. At best it takes 30 minutes to get here. Usually, like today, it takes 40-45. We left right on time and had only one auxiliary stop before getting to the airport. He dropped off the domestic passengers first and then the rest of us at international.

4:15 – Arrived at the international terminal. The lines to check bags and then security were not too long. Our bags did not get flagged for anything so yay! We were at the gate in plenty of time so we decided to split a cheeseburger and fries and have a couple of beers. $52. Yes, $52. Thought Chuck was going to have a coronary.

While waiting to board, we have met several people who are taking this flight for the cruise. Several are members of a couple of different tour groups. Everyone is excited! Hope we are still excited after 9 hours on the plane.

Should start calling sections any minute.

SA: Trip Preparation

Sunday, January 8, 2023

So many apps to complete for this trip – Delta Fly, Verifly, and Holland America Navigator. – photos, passport info, vaccination info, and COVID test information. Then, after uploading the documents and completing all of the apps – they each came with a disclaimer – bring a hard copy of each document. Sigh.

I also printed out the agricultural affirmation for Chile that we have to turn in during Immigration upon arrival. I read there is a website for it to be completed online, but I could not find an online form, just the one to print out. Hope I have the right one.

In addition to the app completion – All the packing done – nails are painted – items readied for the pet sitter. Still to do tomorrow – water plants, put water heater on vacation mode, and catch the airport shuttle. I hope I will get a decent night’s sleep. So excited that the trip is almost here.

Negative! Time to Travel
I swear it is only 45 pounds