Sail-away was very pretty. Clouds on the mountains and snow with waterfalls. A number of gulls flying by. Spent most of the time on the balcony and then for a while in the Ocean Bar.
We decided to eat in the Lido tonight as they were featuring Mongolian night. I had the seafood bowl – shrimp, calamari, fish, and scallops served over noodles in broth. Chuck had the Mongolian beef and rice combination.
After dinner we listened to the Ocean Bar band. The lead singer was performing at the main stage. They were repeating the show “In Tandem.” The band was playing jazz numbers – okay to listen to but not great to dance. We played some slots and then called it a night.
Got up at 5:30. We were supposed to be anchored but we were at a dock. So much better than having to ride a tender to the port. I went for coffee at 7:00 and then we went to the Lido for breakfast at 8:00. We watched the gulls and ducks swarming near the ship. Ship must have stirred up a lot of fish.
We had a HAL tour at 9:00 entitled “Off the Beaten Track: Cruise to Vigur Bird Island.” The tour description:
Leave Ísafjördur harbor by boat to criuise Djupfjord and reach the island of Vigur. This island offers a wealth of magnificent bird life including puffins, eider ducks and arctic terns. The only windmill of the country, almost 160 years old, is still maintained on the island. Here, the farmers live off the land and by harvesting the down of eider ducks.
Vigur village is like a time warp. Its ten friendly inhabitants welcome you with their relaxed, easy manner. A leisurely walk around the island gives you an opportunity to see an abundance of birds in their natural habitat during high season.
Enjoy some refreshments at the old Cow House before returning to the boat.
A farmer’s family will serve refreshments in the mid-19th-century house — the perfect way to complete your visit before returning to Ísafjördur.
Notes: It is essential that you wear warm, layered clothing in order to fully enjoy and participate in this excursion. Wear sturdy non-skid walking shoes. Bring a wind- and waterproof outer layer and a hat. About an hour of walking is required for this tour on gravel paths and uneven surfaces. There is also a 200-yard walk from the ship to where the tour boat is docked. The boat is not wheelchair accessible. Not advisable for guests using a wheelchair or for those with mobility limitations. Participants must be able to step onto the boat and up to the island from the dock. Most of the bird species start migrating away from Vigur around the 10th of August. Wildlife sightings are likely but are not guaranteed. The boat ride is unguided. There is no restroom on the boat.
We walked a short way from the pier to an excursion boat. We opted to sit outside at the back of the boat. It was chilly but we were dressed in layers and they gave us a lap blanket. We were in the middle of the back so we did not get any spray. However, the couple sitting at the back in the corner got a lot of spray.
It was a short ride. Once it let us off at the island, it picked up the group waiting and went back for the next tour group.
We walked up the path making sure we didn’t step on the Eider ducks or the Black Guillemots that were all around.
We were met by our guide – a young woman from Canada who was working there as part of a summer college course. The only other inhabitants were the owner of the island, his wife, and 5-year-old son.
The tour guide explained the Eider down collecting and prepping process. They also had a room dedicated to things that have washed up on their beach.
She talked about the oldest boat in Iceland. Over 200 years old. They keep it painted and it is still sea-worthy if necessary.
We walked up to the windmill.
Next to it, was a colony of Puffins. She talked about how they are always scanning the sea for fish. Several would just take off and dive. More were bobbing in the water. When they brought back fish, they would preen. If one of the Puffins didn’t have as many as the others, he would fly away. The Puffins would soon take the fish to their burrows to feed their Pufflings (yes, Pufflings – so cute). Eventually, the Pufflings are so big, they can’t get out of the burrow. At this time, it is time for the Puffin parents to fly away. When the Pufflings lose weight in their burrow, they emerge and are ready to fly away also.
Afterwards, we walked down the mowed path holding our sticks with flags because we were entering the arctic tern territory. There were hundreds flying around. Their young were on the ground in the weeds. The parents would dive bomb the highest point of any perceived threat. We were that threat. We were told not to swat at them – just hold the flag higher than your head. You could hear the terms popping the flags.
Once we walked the path and looked at the garden the family has, we were free to wander on our own as long as we stayed on the mowed or gravel paths. We could also use the restroom and have some coffee with homemade rhubarb cake with whipped cream. I took a piece of cake with me as I headed back to the Puffins.
I also got some pictures of the Black Guillemots. I loved their red feet. I never could get a picture of them opening their mouths so I could see their red throat. They are a relative to the Puffins.
As it was getting close to the time for the boat to come back, I wandered near the fjord to look at the scenery and watched some arctic terns harass a seal. I wondered if seals got up on the island and tried to get eggs.
Arctic tern after sealSeal pops his head out to see if it is safe
Soon, the boat was back bringing another group to the island. I hope they had as good as time as we did.
Got back in time for a Lido lunch. Our laundry had been delivered so I got that put away.
We set sail at 4:30. It was so narrow, the Captain had to back out until he reached deeper water to turn. Interesting maneuver.
FLOWERS OF ISAFJORDUR
Travel Trivia
Isafjordur, Iceland
Pronunciation: I-sah-fear-dur
According to Iceland’s Book of Settlement, the fjord Skutulsfjörður was first settled in the 9th century by a man called Helgi Magri Hrólfsson. Around the 16th century, Ísafjörður grew rapidly due to it becoming a merchant trading post. The town was granted municipal status in 1786.
Witch trials were common in the Westfjords in the 16th century and the people banished from Isafjordur were sent to a nearby mountainous region.
The first woman to use her right to vote voted at Isafjordur in 1884.
The oldest house still standing in Iceland, built in 1734, is located in Ísafjörður as part of the local folk museum. The area also includes the most extensive body of old timber frame houses in the country, constructed in the 18th century by foreign traders.
Throughout its history, Ísafjörður has been one of the largest fisheries in Iceland. Several factors— a fishing restriction in the 1980s, drops in the fish population and monopolization from bigger fisheries in Reykjavík—have led to a sizeable decline in the town’s population.
*Trivia provided by Wikipedia and Holland America documents
The Captain soon came on the sound system and made his evening announcements. He reported that there were two passengers, not one, who needed to go by ambulance this morning. He, of course, did not say what their conditions were but he did say they did both make it to the hospital.
His next announcement was that we would cross the Arctic Circle tonight as we sailed to our next port. I hope we get a certificate of crossing.
And his third announcement was that the COVID numbers are trending downward. He’ll be having a conversation with the corporate medical team about our mask protocols – going back to masks recommended rather than masks required.
The sail-away took place at 5:45. We passed a marker in the Fjord where an English oil tanker was sunk by the Germans in WWII. They still keep it contained because every now and then some oil will leak out.
From our balcony, we could see some really large jellyfish. I just didn’t know jellyfish were prevalent in cold water.
We went to dinner in the main dining room. We both had the turkey and dressing. I guess I was hungrier than I thought because I forgot to take a photo. We also made the mistake of ordering dessert because it was carrot cake. We ended up bringing it back to the room to eat later.
The Ocean Bar band had the night off and I didn’t really care to see the comedian again. Chuck went to the Casino. I decided to download my photos from today – over 600 (I really went overboard on the Puffins 😍).
Breakfast was delivered at 6:30. We were on a private excursion today so we walked off the ship before the all-clear announcement because we did not want to be the last ones on the van this time.
The name of the tour company was No17. They describe themselves as a small, family-owned travel agency. They provided a 20-seat passenger van and there were 18 of us. I thought the seats were a little more comfortable than the van we had in Reykjavik. The name of the tour was Three Waterfalls and Horses. The tour description:
This 6-hour tour takes you to the three most beautiful waterfalls in the river Skjálfandafljóti and visits Icelandic horses. The three waterfalls are
Goðafoss and its history,
Aldeyjarfoss with all the beauty of columnar basalt and amazing view.
Hrafnarbjargarfoss in the highland east of Akureyri.
We had an English-speaking guide who we could hear very well until his mic went out. Luckily, during our first stop, he was able to get it fixed.
Our first stop was Godafoss. There was a nice path toward the waterfall. It was a popular place with tour groups as the area was very crowded. There was even a group of Auburn Tiger fans that were having their picture made in front of the waterfall with an Auburn banner. Chuck could not help himself. He had to yell “Go Dawgs” as they were getting the picture. One of them said “there is always one.” Really, what are the odds that SEC rivals find each other in Iceland? This stop was also our restroom stop.
I thought the next stop was the most unusual waterfall with its balsalt columns – Aldeyjarfoss. I didn’t go as close as some of the people because the path down to the best viewing area was very steep and rocky and had no railing to hold on.
I was very worried about the drive over to the last waterfall – Hrafnarbjargarfoss -because we were going over a very rocky road and you could hear the rocks hitting under the van. I worried that we’d get a hole or a tire would blow. It was a very rocky and slick edge to see the waterfall too. The guide pointed out all the volcanic ash mounds all around.
Our last stop was a horse farm. We were allowed to walk into the field with the horses. They paid little attention to us as they were busy eating. We had to pay attention where we were stepping because where there are horses, there is **.
This farm specialized in multi-day horse rides/camping. One group came in while we were there. When the horses were allowed into the field, they rolled around in the dirt and grass, so glad to get the saddles and riders off of them.
This was also a restroom stop and we were given some coffee and cookies at this stop. I was glad for the cookies since there was no lunch stop. We also got to pet the other farm animals.
I’m not giving you my chairNope – Keep movingThe cats are mean to me.
I would recommend this company and tour, but you definitely want to wear sturdy shoes and have good balance walking over rocky and slick paths. You may want to bring snacks also.
Once we got back to the ship, we headed for the Lido for a salad. Afterwards, I got a bag of laundry together to send out.
Then I completed another ArriveCanada application in anticipation of our arrival to St. Anthony’s in a few days. Once I received our code, I completed the paperwork and took it all to Guest Services. I was glad to get that chore done.
Time for the sail-away.
FLOWERS of AKUREYRI
Travel Trivia
Akureyri, Iceland
Pronunciation: AH-ku-ray-ree
The first mention of Akureyri is in court records from 1562 when a woman was sentenced there for adultery.
Lake Mývatn (pronounced: My-vah-tin) is the filming location of the Game of Thrones’ ‘beyond the Wall’ scenes.
Location of the northernmost botanical gardens in the world.
Home of the most ski slopes in Iceland.
Has one of the largest libraries in the country.
The landmark here is the town church where most of the beautiful windows are in fact from the cathedral of Coventry in England and moved here before World War II to save them from damage. But then somebody forgot to return them.
The wave action kept up through the evening. Glad my Bonine was working. Wobbled from side to side walking down the hallways.
We listened to the Ocean Bar piano player and played some slots prior to dinner. The Lido was featuring Thai food so we decided to eat there tonight. It was very good.
We listened to the last two sets of the Ocean Bar band instead of going to see Iris Kroes’s second show. I heard it was just as good as the first one.
Even though our tour today was not going to leave until 1:00, I deliberately got up at 6:00 to see the scenic cruising down the fjord to the port. I was glad to feel that the wave action had stopped and felt we must have entered the fjord. When I drew back the curtain, I realized we weren’t moving at all and were, if fact, already docked. I knew this situation couldn’t be good.
While I was waiting for our coffee at the Coffee bar, I heard the Captain over the intercom say there was a medical emergency that required an ambulance to meet us as soon as possible. I heard from other guests that there was a helicopter evacuation rescue during the night about two weeks ago. I never heard the helicopter. One guest had a photo of it as it woke him up in the middle of the night.
After finishing breakfast, since we had so much time before the tour, we decided to stroll around the town for a while.
We saw some interesting artwork.
There was a beautiful waterfall just across the street.
We asked someone who was pumping gas about the gas prices. After Chuck did the conversion, we realized they were paying about $12 per gallon for gas here.
After a quick Lido lunch, we were ready for our HAL tour titled “Skalanes Nature Reserve.” The description:
Enjoy this outstanding opportunity to visit one of Iceland’s most remote places — few Icelanders have had this same pleasure.
From the pier, you will begin your journey on a regular motorcoach, until you reach the starting point for the off-road driving. Here, you will switch vehicles and step aboard a 4×4 adapted truck for ‘F-road’ driving.
Your journey begins with a drive to Þórarinsstaðir for a look at an important archeological site complete with artifacts from the earliest years of Iceland’s settlement.
Continue your panoramic drive through a green valley surrounded by tall mountains. The valley is dotted with lonely farms abandoned long ago, reminding the traveler that this peaceful landscape was once home to a number of families.
Your destination is the Skálanes Heritage Center. The Skálanes Nature Reserve covers 3,000 acres, and the goal here has been to create a site where the Iceland’s environment and cultural history can be researched and interpreted while maintaining a model for sustainable tourism. The area is home to about 47 different species of birds during the summertime. Eider ducks nest in great numbers around the pond.
From the house at Skalanes, set out with your guide on a walk to the coastal cliffs at Skalanes. They are almost 2,000 feet tall and offer a chance to come in very close proximity to nesting seabirds. This is a windswept and wild place — a very real glimpse of rugged Iceland.
Enjoy refreshments before heading back to Eskifjördur and the ship.
We boarded a bus that had large tires. Turns out it was the 4 x 4 vehicle that we would be using to get to the Nature Reserve. As we drove out of town, our tour guide gave us some interesting information:
There were 650 inhabitants and 100 of them were in the fishing industry. They bring in about 150 tons of Cod a week. They freeze it and send the majority to Germany and Norway.
The town is also a thriving art community and has an art school that attracts students from all of the world.
In 2014, the town welcomed 6 cruise ships. In 2022, they expected 105 cruise ships.
Soon, we stopped at a Viking church archeological site.
Once we left there, we drove over a very rocky road to the Nature Reserve research center.
After she told us about the research center and how many students came from all over the world to study there – biology, ecology, zoology, etc., she talked to us about the Eider ducks and how the research center raises money by collecting and selling Eider down, all without harming the ducks. We got to feel the down and it really did give off heat.
She also talked about the lupine that grows so aggressively in the area. It was planted to help with the erosion of the soil and it put a lot of nitrogen in the soil so much-needed trees could grow.
However, it was spreading rapidly, choking out native plants, and the ground-nesting birds who liked rocks and dirt for their nests, did not like the lupine. They are doing research on how they can keep the lupine but control its growth. Good luck with that – ask any Southerner about kudzu.
We walked the path up to the Bird Cliffs. She said that the Arctic terns had already migrated away, but we should see a small colony of Puffins. Soon, Chuck spotted a Puffin. I was so excited. I had been hoping all trip to see a Puffin. I took so many photos of this Puffin.
Then we walked to the end of the walkway to the viewing platform and there were so many more Puffins, even the guide was surprised at the number.
There were also many gulls nesting in the walls and swooping around.
I took so many Puffin pictures that I lost count. I did take a few minutes and also get a picture of a minke whale (at least that is what others said it was). I only saw his back. I never saw him fully surface.
Too soon, it was time to leave. We got back to the ship about 5:00 just as the rain and fog was settling in. It was a good time for a Bailey’s and hot chocolate on the covered balcony. It was a good day (even if we didn’t get any refreshments like advertised).
FLOWERS of SEYDISFJORDUR
Travel Trivia
Seydisfjordur, Iceland
Pronunciation: See-dis-fear-der
The town settlement in the Seydisfjordur area started in 1848. The town was settled by Norwegian fishermen and some of the wooden buildings of the settlement still exist.
Seydisfjordur was used as a base for British/American forces during World War II and remnants of this activity are visible throughout the fjord, including a landing strip no longer in use and an oil tanker SS El Grillo that was bombed and sunk. It remains a divers’ wreck at the bottom of the fjord.
The town is recognized widely for its beautiful light blue church and the rainbow painted path leading up to it.
In the movie, The Secret Life of Walter Mitty (2013), the famous skateboarding scene when Ben Stiller goes down mountain hills is filmed right above Seydisfjordur.
It suddenly dawned on me that we had not made our plans to get a HAL transfer from the cruise port to the Boston airport. We had been warned that with the construction and closing of tunnels between the two ports that delays were possible, and taxis and Ubers might be in short supply. I had also gotten a warning from my Uber app about the same situation. I went to Guest Services, and they said that I could make reservations on the Navigator app or at the Shore Excursions desk.
Chuck and I went to the Casino, and I opened the Navigator app to make the reservation. For flights between 11:00 and 1:00, you had to choose the 8:00 transfer. Okay. I chose it and found out there was only one seat left. Bummer. I went to the Shore Excursions desk to ask to be wait-listed just in case someone cancelled their seat.
There were two people working the desk. Both were getting an earful from unhappy guests. Just great. If I had to listen to that much complaining, I would not be in the mood to be very helpful to the next person. And I am that next person. Sigh.
However, I explained my situation with waitlisting us both because we couldn’t be split up. She tapped away at the keyboard, smiled, and said “I have you both on the 8:00 airport shuttle – no waitlist needed.” I didn’t ask how. I just smiled back and thanked her profusely. Now I don’t have to stress about finding an available taxi to get us to the airport.
We had a fabulous dinner at the Pinnacle Grill, one of the upcharge restaurants on HAL. We’ve never had a bad meal in the Pinnacle Grill on other ships, but we’ve had some better than others. This one would definitely rate in the Top 10.
I had the shrimp cocktail and Chuck had the crab cakes and we split an order of candied bacon. For our main course, I had the seared scallops and Chuck splurged on the dry aged Delmonico steak. We split the key lime pie for dessert.
As in the past when we have had Pinnacle Grill meals, our evening plans went out the window once we were finished eating. We had planned to see the Step One Dance Company present “Musicology.” We had seen it on other ships and enjoyed the show. Instead, we just waddled off to our room and went face down in a food coma.
We were up at 6:00 and, having recovered from our food coma, had time for a Lido breakfast before we were to report for our HAL tour. We watched the scenic sail-in of the fjord while we ate.
The name of the HAL tour was “Rural East Iceland”, and the description was
“Enjoy this intimate introduction to daily life in Iceland under the watchful eye of Europe’s largest glacier.
You’ll leave the tiny fishing village of Djúpivogur and stop at the town of Höfn. From there, continue through the picturesque mountainous region to the outlet of the Hoffellsjökull Glacier. Hoffellsjökull was at its largest around 1890, and for the next 50 years it reached all the way to the moraine ridge that now envelops the lake in front of the glacier. Back then, trucks were driven up to this ridge and filled with ice, which they transported to the town of Höfn. The ice was used for chilling fish, both at sea aboard fishing boats and on shore. Due to climate changes, Hoffellsjökull Glacier has now retreated a considerable distance, leaving a deep glacial lagoon in its wake. The area around the glacier is the habitat of several rare Icelandic plants and a great variety of birds.
Take advantage of a 30-minute stop among these tranquil surroundings to explore on your own; then you will head to a local horse farm. A refreshment of local Icelandic pastries will be served and you will have the opportunity to meet some of the farm’s residents — pure-bred Icelandic horses and a variety of domestic farm animals.
Notes:
Bird sightings are likely but are not guaranteed. The birds start migrating away around mid-August. There are some inclined surfaces to negotiate and rough grass/mud/gravel paths. Not advisable for guests using a wheelchair. Suitable for guests with mobility limitations with a companion to assist. Some sights can be viewed from the coach parking area; all walking is optional. It is essential that you wear warm, layered clothing in order to fully enjoy and participate in this excursion. Outer layer should be waterproof and windproof. Bring gloves, a warm hat, and a scarf. Wear sturdy, non-skid walking shoes.”
The tour was advertised as a 5-hour excursion so I figured we would have time to look around the little village of Djupivogur after we got back. The tour time said 10:00 so I thought we would be back around 3:00 and the last tender wouldn’t leave until 6:30. Best laid plans.
First, the meeting time was 10:00 and the tour wasn’t going to start until 11:00. Okay, now I think we’ll get back at 4:00 or we might still get back at 3:00 if they are counting the tender time. Then, the Shore Excursion attendants said that the seas were a “little rough” so the process of getting people on the tenders was a “little slow”. Okay.
“Little rough” was definitely an understatement. One woman who was in line ahead of us, saw the tender process, and just said “oh hell no” and left the line to go back to her cabin. Hmmm.
I have never seen the tenders bob up and down and away from the ship’s platform so vigorously. I’ve seen wave action much less and they’ve cancelled the stop. There was no announcement about cancelling this one. On we go.
Two crew members on the platform and two crew members in the tender just kind of grabbed you and pushed/pulled you in when the tender got close to the platform. I was glad I had long legs because just as they pulled me in, the tender bobbed down so the step in was longer than anticipated.
I should have been awarded a gold medal for not falling flat on my face. You were told to wear sturdy shoes. I have a pair of thick leather tennis shoes that I call my “Frankenstein shoes” that I wear in these situations. They are certainly not fashionable, but they are the ultimate in sturdy.
Many passengers, a lot less steady on their feet than me, had on backless crocs with socks. How the shoes stayed on their feet and the people stayed upright is beyond me. I know the crew was happy when the tender process was over for the day.
Once we got to the town dock, the water was calm because we were in a small, protected bay area. The tour bus was already there waiting. It was very nice. It wasn’t full so Chuck and I each got a seat by the window. Also, there was a door in front and a door toward the back, so it made getting on and off so much faster.
I was fascinated by the ever-changing Icelandic landscape as we drove to our first stop. A lot of the drive was by the coast but just on the other side, the mountains looked like the background of the Jurassic Park movies. Our guide said that Iceland is the second biggest island in Europe after Britain.
The ride to the first stop was over an hour. He gave us a lot of information – some of which we had heard in Reykjavik but it was still interesting. He pointed out the many swans that come to Iceland in this area every summer. He said they will migrate away some time in August.
We had to go through a long tunnel just before we got to our first stop. He said the tunnel is unusual because many times the weather on one side of the tunnel is completely different from the other side. He may have been joking with us but when we exited the tunnel we were now in very sunny weather. So weird.
According to the description the first stop was supposed to be a small fishing town, but it was the Horse Farm. We stopped at the little house for a bathroom break and then rode the bus down the lane to see the horses.
The owner had riders demonstrate the different gaits the horses can have. She said Icelandic horses perform well in national and international competitions.
But she also said that not all horses are meant to be ridden. They are dinner. She prefers horse meat to beef. I started thinking about the meat soup I had in Reykjavik. What did I eat?
The Icelandic horses were smaller than horses than I am used to seeing but very sturdy and are said to withstand the cold very well. Many rural Icelanders still prefer to travel by horse rather than cars. No other breed of horse is allowed in Iceland. We enjoyed talking with the riders and petting the horses.
We also got to pet the two Icelandic sheep dogs. They were more interested in getting treats.
In addition, there was an unusual looking bird that kept flying around. The horse farm owner didn’t know the English name for it. She told us the Icelandic name, but I can’t even begin to spell it.
And the flies/gnats were back but they didn’t seem to be biting. Lesson learned – never assume.
They served us hot coffee / hot chocolate and some pastries. The description said homemade, but I think the cookies were store bought. The brownie was good though.
Our next stop the tour guide said would be the biggest glacier in Europe outside of the Arctic area. You could see two in the distance from the horse farm.
Playing with my B/W settings
He also said that some of the glaciers in Iceland have volcanoes underneath them and they call those areas the “Battle of the Ice and Fire.” To get out there, we had to drive over a very rocky dry riverbed. I was glad I didn’t have to take my vehicle over those rocks.
We walked up to the ridge where the guide said the Glacier used to be a very long time ago. The view was stunning – almost a lunar look to the lagoon and the Glacier. We got to spend about an hour here, but I could have spent much more time just soaking in the beauty. With the sun out, we actually felt warm enough to take off the jackets.
On our way back to the ship, we stopped at the small harbor town for a rest room break. The guide said they would like to have cruise ships stop at this harbor, but it is too shallow for them. I had time to walk around and take a few photos.
I got my first picture of an Icelandic cat. He had the same expression on his face that my cat does when I am trying to take his picture – “Be gone petty human – I am in no mood to be adoredat this time.”
We took the same highway back to the port, so the ride took about an hour. Therefore, what was advertised as a 5-hour excursion was more like a 7-hour excursion when you factor in the tender operation to and from the ship. So, there was not really enough time to visit the small town.
However, the tender ride back to the ship was much easier than this morning because the seas were much calmer. But it was cold and windy again.
We got back to the room only to find the dreaded notification and our now itchy spots from the bug bites.
FLOWERS FROM DJUPIVOGUR:
Travel Trivia
Djupivogur, Iceland
Pronunciation: DYU-peh-vo-ger (hard “g”)
Djúpivogur is home to Langabúð, one of Iceland’s oldest commercial buildings – built in 1790. Langabúð served many purposes, being a warehouse and slaughterhouse. Today, it is home to a café, the heritage museum and an exhibition on the Icelandic sculptor Ríkarður Jónsson, who was native to the village.
The pyramid-shaped mountain named Búlandstindur near Djupivogur dominates the landscape, and according to legend, it can make wishes come true during the summer solstice.
The Búlandsnes bird sanctuary is renowned among bird lovers throughout the world, where you can observe most Icelandic birds nesting in their natural habitat close by.
Though home to less than 500 people, Djúpivogur is a major attraction, largely due to its public works of art, most notably ‘The Eggs of Merry Bay’ which sits along the coast of Berufjörður. It is also known for being a ‘Cittaslow’ town, meaning the community values a slow-paced way of life.
I just thought there had to be a mistake on tonight’s menu. It was a Gala menu, but the dress code was casual. Chuck went to the dining room to check, and they told him it was correct. We sat at a table for 4 with a couple from Ohio. They also moved us to the 5th floor dining room. There were so few people I think they were just trying to combine all the diners into one dining room.
I had the shrimp cocktail, tomato soup, and we both had the filet mignon with crab meat sauce.
Because the ship was in port overnight, all the shops and the casino were closed. The main stage was showing the movie Death on the Nile. I had already seen it and Chuck did not care to see it. Luckily, the Ocean Bar band was playing all 3 sets tonight. We danced and laughed until 11:00 pm.
Woke up with room service knocking on our door with our coffee. Problem was that we did not order room service this morning. They had the wrong room – Oh, so very sorry. Well, it was 9:30 and past time to get up anyway. I went to the Cafe’ and got us some coffee.
We had no plans for today and debated on whether to go look around the city or not. The weather was drizzly, and we would have to take a cab or shuttle to the downtown area. We decided to stay on the ship.
Another crew drill began at 10:00 with the shrill alarms. We had missed breakfast, so I went to the Café to get us another cup of coffee. They had just brought out their pastries, and I saw slices of carrot cake. Yay! It is my favorite cake, and the ship doesn’t offer it very much. I brought back a slice to share. So good!
I gave myself a manicure and watched the Future Cruise presentation and the Shore Excursion presentation on the television.
Chuck went to the Sea View area and talked with Glen-Michael, the Cruise and Travel Director. Turns out he is actually the Cruise Line’s Head of Travel Experience and is only subbing on this trip as the Cruise Director to give the previous Cruise Director a vacation. Apparently, he does that for other cruise directors on other HAL ships too.
All aboard was 2:30 today. At 2:30, there was an announcement asking for two guests to call Guest Services. That usually means that the ship has a record of them leaving the ship but no record of them coming back to the ship.
Sometimes, the scanner fails and doesn’t read your ship card when you return – thus the call to Guest Services to verify that you are back. Or it may mean that you are late coming back to the ship – that is bad.
At 2:45, the ship blew the horn. If you are in the vicinity of the ship and are not back on it, this horn blast is the Captain giving you one last chance to run for the ship. I’ve seen a number of pier runners in Cozumel. At 3:00, the Captain set sail. I hope the guests were on the ship.
It was nice scenery of the Reykjavik skyline and the pilot boat heading back as we sailed away.
All of a sudden, it was to time to get ready for our dinner at the Pinnacle Grill.
Typical evening of some slot play, listening to the piano player at the Ocean Bar, and then going to the dining room about 6:30. We had a table for two. I made a comment to Chuck that the dining room was practically empty. I guess one of the dining room managers heard me as he came over and said that at 5:00 people were lined up at the door ready to come in, but they were all cleared out at about 6:00. I guess they all go to the 7:00 show and then to bed.
Also, we heard someone say “Zuiderdam” twice. We looked around and a couple from a few tables over said, “We recognize you from the Zuiderdam on the French Polynesia cruise.” We waved back acknowledged that yes, we were on that cruise. I confess that I did not recognize them.
I had the curried cauliflower soup which was spicier than I was ready for, so I almost started coughing. You really don’t want to cough, especially in the dining room, because everyone whirls around and gives you the stink eye. I drank some water to stifle the throat tickle. I also had the Boston lettuce leaf salad. For my main course I had the lamb shank.
Chuck had the seafood cake with salmon on the side as an appetizer. The salmon was raw. He ate some of it and got a funny look on his face. It wasn’t long before he had to leave the table. He did come back and eat his beef short ribs, but I knew he wasn’t feeling well.
We came back to the room, and he immediately went to bed. He told me to go ahead and attend the comedian’s show, but I stayed in the room and finished processing some photos.
Woke up before the alarm. I had slept fitfully. Weather was cloudy. Since we had an early tour, we had breakfast delivered to the room at 7:00. Chuck was feeling much better than the night before.
Today was not a tender port. We were docked in an industrial area and would be here overnight. The city was offering free shuttles to the port entrance or shuttles to the downtown area for $11 one way. I was not sure if our private tour group was going to be at the gate or if we would have to take the shuttle to the port entrance. I contacted the coordinator of this private tour, and she wasn’t sure either.
The beginning of our tour started out inauspiciously. We headed to the gangway at 8:00 as we were told by the coordinator to be at the bus between 8:00 and 8:15. However, before we could get to Deck A and the gangway, a HAL employee told us to wait for the “all clear” announcement. Then, the “all clear” announcement came about 8:15 with the direction that the Icelandic government wanted everyone to have their vaccine card so you could enter businesses and restaurants. Had to go back to the room to get those cards.
We ended up being the last two people on our shuttle at 8:30. Everyone else on the shuttle had just walked off the gangway prior to 8:00. I guess they didn’t run into the same HAL employee that we did. We explained what happened and having to retrieve our cards. Since they got off before the announcement, most didn’t have their vaccine cards although some said they had them on their phones. I am surprised the tour shuttle waited for us. They all looked at us disapprovingly like “there is always someone who can’t be on time.”
The tour today was provided by Your Day Tours and the description of the tour was
THINGVELLIR – The first stop of the day is the national park Thingvellir, which is full of history and natural beauty. It has a special place in the hearts of all Icelanders, all the way back to the Viking time when they founded here the first parliament in the world.
We will have enough time to walk around and explore this wonderful place. We will have the opportunity to walk in the rift valley, where the tectonic plates are pulling apart. This is the closest you can get to being in two continents at the same time, since under the national park the Eurasian plate and the American plate are separating by almost an inch every year.
Thingvellir was designated as a World Heritage of UNESCO in 2004.
In the area there are restrooms and coffee shops for visitors.
GULLFOSS – The wonderful Gullfoss is in our opinion one of the most beautiful waterfalls on earth. It is one of the biggest waterfalls in Iceland and there is a beautiful story about the waterfall which your guide will tell you.
When Canadians and Americans go there, they call it “the mini-version of Niagara falls”, we don’t know if we agree on that though, if you ask us, it’s even prettier. The waterfall is located close to the second biggest glacier in Iceland, Langjökull, and you will see the fresh glacier water falling down 105 feet total into the canyon.
Gullfoss is beautiful from all angles, from above it looks perfect with the Icelandic nature around. In the summertime it is possible to walk all the way down to Gullfoss and feel its power and spraying water in the air.
GEYSIR – Geysir is the most famous hot spring in the world, no doubt. It’s that famous that people from other countries talk about “Geyser” when talking about erupting hot springs. Geysir is located only an 8-minute drive from Gullfoss and is our third big attraction of the day.
Geysir is the father of all the hot springs in the area, and first erupted hundreds of years ago. The “golden age” for Geysir was in the beginning of last century when it erupted up to 200 feet every half an hour. Geysir fell asleep late last century but woke up again after the earthquakes in Haukadalur area in the year 2000. It was erupting for 4 months, with a little help from the locals who put soap in it to make it erupt. They stopped doing that due to environmental reasons, of course. Geysir has been sleeping since the fall of the year 2000.
The only active erupting hot spring in the area is “the son of Geysir”, called Strokkur. Strokkur erupts every 3 to 8 minutes and goes as high as 115 feet. Strokkur is a spectacular hot spring, seeing this active hot spring erupt just a few miles from the glacier is a once in a lifetime experience.
This is our lunch stop. There are restaurants at the Geysir area where you can have burgers, salads, traditional Icelandic meat soup (our favorite) and much more. If you want to bring your own lunch with you, we let our customers eat in the bus, especially if the weather is bad.
We will have time to check out the hot springs (no bathing allowed!) and also time to have lunch.
SECRET LAGOON – The last stop of the day is the Secret Lagoon known in Iceland as the “Old pool” since it is the oldest geothermal pool on the island, founded in 1891.
It is nothing more relaxing after a day out in the Icelandic nature then end the day in a geothermal pool. In Iceland we do have more than 100 geothermal pools all over the country and it is a big part of the Icelandic culture to go there to relax. The Secret Lagoon is different from the pools in Reykjavik for example, the area is all covered in mossy lava fields and many hot springs all around. There is a little hot spring there which erupts every 4-6 minutes.
If you feel too hot it is nice to stand up and walk around the area on the walking paths around the pool.
The water is about 100 – 104 degrees Fahrenheit.
Before you enter the pool, the staff will tell you the rules and what should be kept in mind when visiting the pool.
Remember to bring towels and swimsuits with you, but they can be rented by extra cost at the lagoon.
We stop in the pool for about 90 minutes.
Our driver’s name was Ligo, and he was the father of the sons who run the tour company. The van was a 16-passenger van and there were 12 of us. However, the seats and the aisles were very narrow and there was not much leg room between you and the people in front of you. I think even less than what they give you on airplanes.
THINGVELLIR
We saw the largest lake in Iceland. It has brown trout measuring around 3 feet and researchers study their behavior in the winter when the fish all gather together in the bottom of the river leading to the lake and stay there. The lake also has three types/sizes of Char. The guide said that most lakes only have one type of Char. He said people come from all over the world, especially Europe, to fish the rivers and lakes of Iceland. He said a favorite snack of Icelanders is dried fish. Hmmm. Think I will stick with Cheetos as my go-to snack.
Next stop was the area of the Tectonic plate separation. We walked the path between the North American and the Euro Asian plates. The bugs from both sides were ready for us. We spent about 45 minutes walking along the path. Ligo brought the van around to the end of the path. Ligo said this area was considered a sacred place to Icelanders as it was an area where they first formed their government.
As we drove to our next stop, we saw all kinds of sheep just wandering around in the fields and along the road. They are not wild because when they are rounded up, the farmers know which ones belong to which farmer by a notch or a tag on the sheep’s ear.
We also passed a power plant and its pipeline that brings steam to houses, businesses, and green houses for heating. They have to import items such as corn and barley, but the green houses can produce vegetables like tomatoes, cucumbers, etc. They do not use oil or coal to heat. Of course, the trade-off is that the hot water/steam is readily available because of all the volcanic activity that is rumbling underneath Iceland.
GULLFOSS WATERFALL
Our next stop was Gullfoss a 105-foot waterfall. Some people walked the path to get very close to it and came back damp. Chuck and I chose to watch from a distance. I was not yet ready to get wet.
Ligo told us the story of Sigríður Tómasdóttir who went on a hunger strike and walked 75 miles to bring attention to saving the area of the waterfall. Her memory is commemorated with a sculpture of her overlooking her beloved falls.
Yes, Ligo said some people have gone over the falls either accidentally or on purpose every year. Got to watch where you are stepping trying to get that perfect selfie. I watched a mother and two daughters leaning back over the rope barrier, and suddenly one of the daughters’ feet slid a little on the gravel while they were trying to get a selfie. I thought they were going to go over the rope. The mother pulled them forward. They moved farther away from the rope and closer to the walkway. Good decision.
HORSE FARM
Ligo said we had time for a short stop at a small horse farm to see some Icelandic horses. I knew one of our later tours was going to take us to a horse farm, but I was glad to see these horses too.
No, he’s not a horse but he was cute
GEYSER (GEYSIR)
Our next stop was to see the geyser area. It would also be our lunch stop if we chose to eat. We did. The place was very crowded. Found out there were two other ships in port today. All the different tour busses seemed to converge on this place at once.
I was able to muscle my way to the deli line and got a bowl of the recommended meat soup for me and a chicken sandwich for Chuck. I forgot to pick up a drink, but we had water in our backpack. Used our no-foreign-transaction-fee credit card to pay for the meal as the prices were in Icelandic Krona. Will be curious to see what the amount will be when I look at the statement later. Chuck thinks it will be around $30. I just know Iceland is expensive. The soup was delicious.
After a bathroom stop, we walked across the street to see the geyser named “Strokkur” – Little Brother. The large geyser – “Geysir” – Old Man has not erupted since 2000 but Ligo said you never know if it will go off again. Strokkur erupts every 5 to 7 minutes. It was right on time. We watched it erupt twice. It was fun but not as impressive as Old Faithful in my opinion.
Ligo warned us not to touch the water that runs by the walking path. There were also signs along the path that warned you. Some people (not in our tour group) ignored everything and walked off the marked path for a short-cut to the geyser. Oh well, can’t fix stupid. Ligo said several people get scalded badly each year.
176-212 degrees Fahrenheit
The sun came out while we were there, and it was very pleasant. Then, it suddenly clouded up, got colder, and started to drizzle. Ligo said “Welcome to Iceland.” The rain did not last long.
SECRET LAGOON
Our next stop was the one I was looking forward to the most – a swim in a natural hot spring. It is called the Secret Lagoon and is smaller than the famous Blue Lagoon but said to be just as warm.
Getting ready to get into the hot spring is not for the modest or shy. At the first room, everyone takes off their shoes and socks and leaves them on shelves. Next, there are changing/shower rooms separated by gender. The only space in this room for privacy is the bathroom. The requirement is that you put your street clothes in the locker and take the key. Next, you shower au naturel alongside others and the shower heads are just lined up on one long wall – no stalls separating them. Then, you put on your swimsuit, and you can enter the hot springs.
I figured I wouldn’t know anyone so who cares? I forgot that there would be other women on this same tour from the same ship that I would probably see later every day. Okay, just ignore them. With COVID face masks on in the ship, you don’t know who anyone is anyway. But who knew that women would want to chat with each other while completely naked? Geez. Really?
I just want to get showered and get my swimwear on. No, sorry, I don’t know the cost of a glass of wine here. Yes, I’m sure there is a menu somewhere. OMG.
Being wet from the shower, I struggled to get into my swimsuit. Seemed to take forever to get it past my thighs. I was pulling so hard on the material I am glad I didn’t rip it. I was so happy when I could finally walk out to the hot spring area.
The attendants warned you not to wear any jewelry as it would tarnish and that if you got your hair wet in the spring water, it might feel coarse for a day or two. They also warned you not to get close to the springs outside of the fenced pool area as they were too hot. Those springs fed the pool area and would start to cool as it dissipated. There were two lifeguards monitoring all the swimmers at all times.
I hung my towel up on the hooks provided and carefully walked to the pool as the concrete was very slick. The water was only waist deep for me, but the bottom was rocky and in some parts slick. They supplied noodles that you could use to float. The closer you got to the far wall, the hotter the water became. I thought it was heavenly.
I found Chuck and some of the other tour participants and we talked and bobbed around for about an hour. I was glad Chuck liked the water as I wasn’t sure he would. He doesn’t like water as hot as I like it as he has told me numerous times when I forget and leave our shower set to my heat preference.
I brought my iPhone into the pool with me as I had it in its waterproof case. I took pictures of some of us and shared it with others. And I let others take pictures with it. I always held it out of the water as I think of the waterproof case as a safeguard in case I do drop it. I’ve seen people take theirs in the water while snorkeling, but I don’t risk it.
Dried, dressed, and back on the bus it was time to go back to the ship. On the way back, Ligo pointed out all the evergreen trees we were seeing. He said that these trees are not native. There is so much lava in the soil it stunts the growth of the only kind of native tree – a type that I thought looked similar to aspens – sometimes didn’t grow higher than bushes. In fact, he said that if you ever find yourself lost in an Iceland natural forest, just stand up and you will find your way.
Native Icelandic trees
These evergreens are planted in order to try and get more trees in Iceland. The government is supporting farmers that want to transition to tree farming.
We arrived back at the ship at 5:00. The line was very long to get back into the ship. I finally noticed why. The tide was low, and the entrance ramp had a steep ramp going down to the doorway. You also had to duck low under the padded doorway to get in. They should have been playing music so we could all Limbo into the ship.
Even though the van was kind of cramped, we enjoyed the sites and all the commentary from Ligo. I would recommend Your Day Tours to anyone who wants to experience the Golden Circle of Reykjavik. (FYI – Nobody ever asked to see our vaccine cards – Sigh)
A FLOWER of REYKJAVIK
Travel Trivia
Reykjavik, Iceland
Pronounced: RAY-kah-vik
Reykjavik is believed to be the location of the first permanent settlement in Iceland and is the world’s northernmost capital of a sovereign state.
Steam from hot springs in the region is said to have inspired Reykjavík’s name, which loosely translates to Smoke Cove or Smokey Bay.
In 1972, Reykjavík hosted the world chess championship between Bobby Fischer and Boris Spassky.
From May 20 to July 24, daylight is essentially permanent as the sun never gets more than 5° below the horizon. Day length drops to less than five hours between December 2 and January 10.
Reykjavik is also known as the Puffin Capital of the World as it is the only capital with its own colony of Puffins. Iceland is home to 60% of the Puffin population in the world.
The most prominent landmark in Reykjavik is Hallgrímskirkja church in the city’s center. It is one of the largest and finest churches in Iceland. The church is 240 feet high and is visible from almost any point in the city.
*Trivia provided by Wikipedia and Holland America documents
