I really was ready to relax. After we ate lunch, I laid down on the bed “just for a minute” but woke up only just in time to see the sail-away at 4:30. I found Chuck on the Sea View deck. He said he spent time on the balcony watching the street scenes and then went to the deck. He said I was napping so hard I was snoring. (I knew he was kidding because I don’t snore.)
I was glad I didn’t miss the sail-away as we passed under two bridges with very little clearance. Reminded me of when we sail out of Tampa and go under the Sunshine Bridge and the smokestacks just barely make it.
Dinner tonight for me was sweet potato soup, a salad, and swordfish. Chuck had the steak.
After dinner, we played some slots and then went to the piano bar lounge to listen to the singer. We had not been there until now. She had a good voice, played expertly, and bantered well with the guests. You could tell the ones in the audience that have come here frequently. A piano bar used to be a staple on the HAL ships and had quite the following. Now on most of the HAL ships, they have moved to a two piano/two singer – dueling piano – format. I think the reviews have been mixed.
We went to see the main stage show – Saxophonist Akos Laki. He played a number of instruments, but you could tell he loved the saxophone and clarinet the most. He played classical, rock, and New Orleans jazz. He was backed up by the Ocean Bar band and the classical pianist performer (Filip Wojciechowski) even came out and joined him in some jazz numbers. We thoroughly enjoyed the performance.
We listened to the Ocean Bar band’s one set of the night and called it an evening.
Woke up at 7:30 and made my way to the Coffee Bar at 8:00. Sat on the balcony watching the sea go by. It was a little foggy, but I could tell the air was getting warmer as we sailed south toward the Netherlands. Neither of us were hungry, so we opted for another coffee from the Coffee Bar and continued to watch the sea.
The program advertised that the shops were having a sale today. For this cruise, we had a lot of onboard credit that we needed to spend or lose. Normally, we will use it to help pay the daily crew gratuities, but gratuities were included on this trip. If we are driving to/from the port, we will purchase the duty-free liquor, but we flew this trip. I had already purchased the excursions we wanted so we just decided to see what the shops had to offer.
Chuck found a very nice jacket for 60% off. I found a sweatshirt I liked but it wasn’t on sale. However, as part of our mariner benefits, we get 15% off HAL clothing so I got it. Chuck also got his mariner discount on top of the sale price, so he was very happy.
After a nice Lido lunch, we spent most of the day enjoying the balcony. I did get some of my photos transferred from the camera to my laptop, and we played some slots. A very lazy sea day – my favorite.
We were still so full from the Norwegian lunch buffet that we didn’t want to eat a big dinner. We played some slots and then went to the Lido. I had a salad and Chuck had some chicken pot pie.
Afterwards, we listened to the first set of the Ocean Bar band. Chuck went to play some cards. I came back to the room to read. It was going to be another early tour for us.
I was up at 5:30 and breakfast was delivered at 6:45. Our tour was to start at 8:15. Déjà vu.
Since today was another HAL tour, we went to the main stage area, showed our tickets, and got our tour number sticker – just like usual. We sat down next to a couple to wait for our tour number to be called. I noticed they had the same sticker as we did and I said “I’m glad to see others going for the walking tour of Bergen.” She gave me a strange look and said, “No, we are going to see a piano concert.” Hmm.
She and I went back to the Shore Excursions attendant handing out the stickers. We were the ones with the wrong stickers. He exchanged ours for the correct ones. I’m sure the concert was very nice, but we were looking forward to the walking tour.
The HAL Tour was aptly named: “A Walk through Bergen and the Ice Bar.” The tour description:
“Meet your guide and walk with him/her from the ship to Bryggen. This is the wharf that was built by the Hanseatic League of the German merchants back in the Middle Ages. They were very powerful — an early example of collective bargaining — and did a great deal of trade with the fishermen of northern Norway. At the peak of their power (1350-1550) the Hanseatic merchants held a monopoly on the fishing industry and wielded significant political power in Bergen. They built some lovely warehouses here, and you’ll see these today.
Next, move on to the Fish Market, where it is clear that the heyday is over, but the fun is well underway.
An Ice Bar has cropped up in Bergen — your chance to enjoy an ice-cold welcome and a drink in an environment where everything is made of ice.
Head back to the ship after your tour.
Notes: This is a walking tour. Participants must be fit enough to cover approximately 2½ miles of walking on paved roads as well as cobblestones and uneven terrain. Walking time is about 2½ hours.
There were enough people on this tour to divide into two groups. Our guide was a young woman from Germany who was over here doing an international study course. She worked part-time for the tour company doing their walking tours to earn some extra money. She was supposed to do an international study in South Africa in 2020 but of course it didn’t happen.
I am glad we were in her group. She was very knowledgeable. She didn’t walk or talk too fast. She didn’t mind answering questions or repeating information. I heard later on that the other group did not get a guide as good as she was.
Our first stop was the Bergenhus Castle/Fortress that is still used today for military purposes as well as public purposes such as tours like ours and outdoor concerts. There were areas in it that we were not allowed to tour.
Rosenkrantz TowerHaakon’s Hall -In medieval times, it was the largest building of the royal palace in Bergen
Our next stop was the wharf area and the Hanseatic buildings. Even though she was German, she did not hesitate to talk openly and honestly about the German merchants who occupied these warehouses – the good (built housing, paid well, and taught employees to read and write) and the bad (employees were boys as young as 10 – 12 who worked 10 – 13 hours every day in cold conditions and didn’t see their families for years, if ever).
The buildings that remain today, because they are wood and the weather is almost always rainy and damp, are in constant need of expensive upkeep. Some in Bergen have advocated that they just be torn down. But they are a UNESCO World Heritage Site, so they stay.
Yes, the buildings leanRestoration work going on1st level – selling goods, 2nd level – storing goods, 3rd level – livingBuildings were marked with statues, etc. so delivery people could deliver to the correct warehouses even if they couldn’t read
As we continued to walk, we passed several statues and monuments.
Monument to women and children who were left behind when their husbands/fathers lost their lives during the war.
We stopped for a bathroom break at some public toilets. Around the public toilet building were some plant containers. The sign in the containers said that all the plants growing in them were edible and eat as much as you want. Hmmm – Plants in containers around the toilets. How did they get watered and/or fertilized? Nope. Not trying the plants.
Next, we came to the fish and farmer’s market. The guide said that the outdoor market had the best prices as it only popped up on weekends. The inside fish market that was opened daily was for tourists and had high prices.
I had to do a double take at a restaurant sign at the market indicating what sandwiches you could get. Whale? Really?
As we walked to our last stop, she talked about how the old architecture of Bergen is slowly but surely being replaced by new architecture and she was not a fan. She did not call it new architecture – she called it ugly. I cannot disagree.
Our last stop was the Magic Ice Bar. I’ve never been to an ice bar and was excited to go to one. In the lobby, we were all given gloves and parkas and a drink ticket. Then we went through the heavy door into the Ice Bar.
The room is kept at a constant 23 degrees. The displays inside change periodically. While we were there, the displays were ice sculptures that mimicked famous art pieces by Norwegian artists. I didn’t recognize any of the works, but it was certainly interesting.
Had faux-fur pads to sit on
Our drink ticket allowed us to have a glass of local wine that I thought tasted like muscadine. We spent about 30 minutes in there. My fingers were starting to get very cold.
The bar and its shelves were ice. Glass that held the drinks were ice.
Our guide walked us back to the farmer’s market area. She then gave maps and information to those who wanted to stay in the city and do other things such as shop, eat, or ride the funicular up the mountain.
Don’t think many were going here but who knows?
For the rest of us who were ready to go back to the ship, she walked us back a little different route so we could see some of the street art. She said the one that has the dove of peace pooping on Putin’s head just showed up a few days ago.
I really enjoyed the tour but they weren’t kidding about the cobblestones. I saw them trip up more than one person.
And I liked the city of Bergen okay but there was quite a bit of trash on the streets and sidewalks. Looked like they had a big party on Friday night and hadn’t yet cleaned up. Maybe it’s not always like that.
We got back to the ship and my Fitbit had recorded 4+ miles of walking so I guess that is “approximately” 2.5 miles as the description said. I was ready to relax.
Almost back to the Ship!
Flowers from Bergen
Travel Trivia
Bergen, Norway
Pronunciation: BEAR-eh-gen (hard “g”)
Bergen is known as the ‘city among seven mountains’ and is the second largest city in Norway (the capital Oslo being the largest).
According to tradition, the city was founded in 1070 by King Olav Kyrre but some research has indicated there may have been trading posts from the 1020’s.
Bergen is considered the rainiest city in Europe. It once had 85 days of consecutive rain.
In the latter half of the 19th century, the city had the largest concentration of leprosy patients in Europe.
Henrik Ibsen, Norway’s great author and modernist playwright, was employed as decorator and instructor at Det Norske Theater (The Norwegian Theater) in Bergen from the age of 23 to 29. Ibsen’s first dramas were written and performed there.
Bergen’s Nordnes Park has a totem pole donated from the city of Seattle, Washington.
Picture from Google
*Trivia provided by Wikipedia and Holland America documents
As we got ready for the Gala night, we looked at the menu and it was just a regular night menu. We knew we weren’t going to the main show because our Alesund tour was going to start early.
We looked at each other and agreed – we were skipping Gala night, wearing jeans, and just eating in the Lido. Almost everything they were offering in the dining room, they had available at the buffet. I think this is the first time in our cruising history we have skipped dressing up for a Gala night.
I had crispy duck and noodles with some spring rolls. Chuck had the chicken pot pie.
After dinner, Chuck went to the Casino, and I went to our room for more photo processing.
I was up at 5:30. Our room service breakfast was delivered at 6:45.
Today, we were taking the 8:00 am HAL tour “Romsdal and the Troll Path.” The tour description:
Take a short sightseeing tour of Ålesund city, passing the town of Spjelkavik en route to Sjøholt village.
From Sjøholt, you’ll follow the shoreline of Storfjord, enjoying beautiful scenes from the road. You are now in an area known for both salmon fishing and furniture making. The furniture crafted here is exported all over the world. In Stordal alone there are several furniture factories.
Pass the old, octagonal Stordal Church (1789) and through Liabygd and Valldal, renowned for growing sweet strawberries. You will follow the valley towards Trollstigen (the Troll Path), passing the impressive Gudbrandsjuvet Gorge. On top of the mountain, you can still see signs of the old road built in 1028 by Viking King Olav.
In the center of the Trolltindene mountain range you will stop for a typical Norwegian buffet lunch of hot and cold dishes, desserts and coffee. A bottle of mineral water or light beer is included per person.
From the highest point on the road, at 2,800 feet above sea level, you will drive the famous Troll Path with its 11 exciting hairpin bends leading down toIsterdalen Valley. Stop to visit the famous Troll Wall — well known to mountaineers all over the planet. This wall has the highest overhang in Europe and is visited by world-famous climbers every summer.
Pass Romsdalsfjord and the picturesque villages of Innfjorden, Mandalen, Vagstrand and Vikebukt before crossing Orskog Mountain to join the main road back to Ålesund.
We were docked alongside the SAGA Spirit cruise ship. We were one of two HAL tour busses that would be doing today’s tour. Our bus left first. Our guide was from Italy, and he started right away with narration as we passed through Alesund. The bus seats were very comfortable, the sound system good, and very large windows.
Our first photo stop was at a point along the fjord. There was a restroom along with a small shop. You had to pay to use the restroom and they would only take Norwegian Krona. US Dollars? No. Euros? No. They might have taken a credit card, but we didn’t ask. I was glad I did not have much to drink this morning.
The scenery as we continued our route was beautiful. Mountainous. Very heavily forested – unlike Iceland. If you get lost in a forest here – you are lost.
So many waterfalls. Just gorgeous.
As we drove along to our next stop, we noticed a number of camp sites with campers, small cabins, and tents dotting all along the fjord. Our guide said that many small farmers had converted their land from farms to campsites for tourists because it was much more profitable. People come to participate in hiking, skiing, rafting, and base jumping.
However, we also passed a number of strawberry fields that were being harvested at this time. We also had to look out for sheep that would just wander into the traffic.
The next stop was a restroom and photo stop next to a rushing river. The sound of the water pouring over the rocks was so powerful.
At this stop, our guide bought a container of strawberries from two girls who had set up a stand. He was right – they were very sweet and juicy even though they were small. Sometimes the ones we get at the store are large, but they don’t have much taste to them.
Our next stop was a scenic overlook into the Valley.
Thor’s Lightning Bolt (according to the guide)
As we left and started driving down the Troll path into the Valley, the bus made all eleven hairpin turns. I was so glad I was not the one driving the bus.
It is called the Troll path because if you REALLY use your imagination, you can see troll faces in the rock formations on the mountains. I didn’t see any trolls, but the waterfall was impressive.
Can you find the troll?
Once we arrived in the Valley, we had our lunch stop. It was a very efficient buffet. I chose a small sample of peppered salmon, pork meatball, beef patty, mixed vegetables, and lingonberry jam. We were given slices of ice cream cake for dessert.
I had fun taking photos of the troll statues and the places with the sod roofs.
I bought my Christmas ornament.
We then stopped at the Troll Wall that people come from all over to climb. So cloudy, we couldn’t see the top.
Before heading back to the ship, we were able to make a photo stop in Alesund.
The flame marker where the terrible fire that destroyed the town started (everything was built of wood).
Statue honoring the lives lost at sea of the people trying to escape to England and Scotland during war.
The only building that survived the fire because of its location around the water.
Arrived back to the ship at 4:20. Sail-away was supposed to be at 5:00 but the ship in front of us had not yet left and we couldn’t go around it. We eventually sailed away at 5:30. We watched the sail-away from the balcony with coffee & Bailey’s.
FLOWERS FROM ALESUND
Travel Trivia
Alesund, Norway
Pronunciation: OH-leh-sun
Legend has it that the Viking Rollon, the 10th-century founder of the dynasty of the dukes of Normandy, hailed from just slightly north-west of Ålesund. At least three statues of Rollon exist: in the town park in Ålesund, in Rouen, France, and in Fargo, North Dakota.
Photo provided by Google
On the night of 23 January 1904, Alesund, built largely of wood, was the scene of a great fire. Practically the entire town was destroyed during the night, a gale aiding the flames, and the population had to leave the town in the middle of the night with only a few minutes’ notice. However, only one person died in the fire.
Kaiser Wilhelm of Germany had often been on vacation to the area. After the fire, he sent four warships with materials to build temporary shelters. Eventually, the town was rebuilt in stone, brick, and mortar in Art Nouveau, the architectural style of the time. The structures were designed by approximately 20 master builders and 30 Norwegian architects, most of them educated in Trondheim and Charlottenburg, Berlin, drawing inspiration from all over Europe. To honor Wilhelm, one of the most frequented streets of the town is named after him.
Alesund has the most important fishing harbor in Norway and its fishing fleet is considered one of the most modern in Europe.
*Trivia provided by Wikipedia and Holland America documents
The dreaded notification – the card that tells us that we move our clocks forward another hour tonight – was on the bed again. Ugh!
At least we had a Canaletto dinner to make us forget this unpleasant upcoming event. The Canaletto, an Italian restaurant, is the other upcharge restaurant on the Zaandam. Our package included one free dinner at the Pinnacle Grill and one free dinner at the Canaletto.
In regard to the itchy bites, cortisone cream worked wonders.
As far as the dinner reservation being on the wrong night, we could have shown them the printed written confirmation for August 6th and skipped tonight, but we were hungry since lunch had consisted of a couple of cookies and hot chocolate.
We were so hungry, in fact, that I forgot to take any picture of dinner except my Langoustine tomato soup. I’ve never had soup with mussel shells, clam shells, and shrimp heads in it.
Chuck had the veal and sage meatballs. We split an order of lump crab risotto. He had the beef short ribs gnocchi, and I had the vegetarian pesto pasta. We split some gelato for dessert.
We did not make it to the concert pianist performance. I went back to the room and read, and Chuck went to the Casino. I didn’t make it past the first few pages and never heard him come in.
Woke up and looked at my Fitbit and it read 7:30. Good for me – getting up early! Then I looked at my battery-powered alarm clock that I had reset the night before. It was actually 8:30. Oh, good grief – stupid time change.
We had a late Lido breakfast, so I skipped lunch and spent some time typing up some of my travel notes. Chuck went to the casino and the pool.
I went to see a new speaker, James Fletcher, at 1:00. His topic “The Universe is Stranger than You Know.” He had spectacular pictures from the Webb and Hubbard telescopes. With new telescopes, we can now see 2 trillion galaxies. He said also that we have not been visited by Aliens because our radio waves do not go far enough into the universe for us to be discovered. (Don’t tell the History Channel that because all its popular shows will tank.) He followed up his talk with a Q/A session.
At 3:00, there was a port talk by Glen-Michael, the Cruise & Travel Director. He gave us some basic information – weather, currency, things to see on our own – for the upcoming ports of Alesund, Bergen, and Rotterdam.
Met up with Chuck after the port talk to get ready for the evening’s activities.
It suddenly dawned on me that we had not made our plans to get a HAL transfer from the cruise port to the Boston airport. We had been warned that with the construction and closing of tunnels between the two ports that delays were possible, and taxis and Ubers might be in short supply. I had also gotten a warning from my Uber app about the same situation. I went to Guest Services, and they said that I could make reservations on the Navigator app or at the Shore Excursions desk.
Chuck and I went to the Casino, and I opened the Navigator app to make the reservation. For flights between 11:00 and 1:00, you had to choose the 8:00 transfer. Okay. I chose it and found out there was only one seat left. Bummer. I went to the Shore Excursions desk to ask to be wait-listed just in case someone cancelled their seat.
There were two people working the desk. Both were getting an earful from unhappy guests. Just great. If I had to listen to that much complaining, I would not be in the mood to be very helpful to the next person. And I am that next person. Sigh.
However, I explained my situation with waitlisting us both because we couldn’t be split up. She tapped away at the keyboard, smiled, and said “I have you both on the 8:00 airport shuttle – no waitlist needed.” I didn’t ask how. I just smiled back and thanked her profusely. Now I don’t have to stress about finding an available taxi to get us to the airport.
We had a fabulous dinner at the Pinnacle Grill, one of the upcharge restaurants on HAL. We’ve never had a bad meal in the Pinnacle Grill on other ships, but we’ve had some better than others. This one would definitely rate in the Top 10.
I had the shrimp cocktail and Chuck had the crab cakes and we split an order of candied bacon. For our main course, I had the seared scallops and Chuck splurged on the dry aged Delmonico steak. We split the key lime pie for dessert.
As in the past when we have had Pinnacle Grill meals, our evening plans went out the window once we were finished eating. We had planned to see the Step One Dance Company present “Musicology.” We had seen it on other ships and enjoyed the show. Instead, we just waddled off to our room and went face down in a food coma.
We were up at 6:00 and, having recovered from our food coma, had time for a Lido breakfast before we were to report for our HAL tour. We watched the scenic sail-in of the fjord while we ate.
The name of the HAL tour was “Rural East Iceland”, and the description was
“Enjoy this intimate introduction to daily life in Iceland under the watchful eye of Europe’s largest glacier.
You’ll leave the tiny fishing village of Djúpivogur and stop at the town of Höfn. From there, continue through the picturesque mountainous region to the outlet of the Hoffellsjökull Glacier. Hoffellsjökull was at its largest around 1890, and for the next 50 years it reached all the way to the moraine ridge that now envelops the lake in front of the glacier. Back then, trucks were driven up to this ridge and filled with ice, which they transported to the town of Höfn. The ice was used for chilling fish, both at sea aboard fishing boats and on shore. Due to climate changes, Hoffellsjökull Glacier has now retreated a considerable distance, leaving a deep glacial lagoon in its wake. The area around the glacier is the habitat of several rare Icelandic plants and a great variety of birds.
Take advantage of a 30-minute stop among these tranquil surroundings to explore on your own; then you will head to a local horse farm. A refreshment of local Icelandic pastries will be served and you will have the opportunity to meet some of the farm’s residents — pure-bred Icelandic horses and a variety of domestic farm animals.
Notes:
Bird sightings are likely but are not guaranteed. The birds start migrating away around mid-August. There are some inclined surfaces to negotiate and rough grass/mud/gravel paths. Not advisable for guests using a wheelchair. Suitable for guests with mobility limitations with a companion to assist. Some sights can be viewed from the coach parking area; all walking is optional. It is essential that you wear warm, layered clothing in order to fully enjoy and participate in this excursion. Outer layer should be waterproof and windproof. Bring gloves, a warm hat, and a scarf. Wear sturdy, non-skid walking shoes.”
The tour was advertised as a 5-hour excursion so I figured we would have time to look around the little village of Djupivogur after we got back. The tour time said 10:00 so I thought we would be back around 3:00 and the last tender wouldn’t leave until 6:30. Best laid plans.
First, the meeting time was 10:00 and the tour wasn’t going to start until 11:00. Okay, now I think we’ll get back at 4:00 or we might still get back at 3:00 if they are counting the tender time. Then, the Shore Excursion attendants said that the seas were a “little rough” so the process of getting people on the tenders was a “little slow”. Okay.
“Little rough” was definitely an understatement. One woman who was in line ahead of us, saw the tender process, and just said “oh hell no” and left the line to go back to her cabin. Hmmm.
I have never seen the tenders bob up and down and away from the ship’s platform so vigorously. I’ve seen wave action much less and they’ve cancelled the stop. There was no announcement about cancelling this one. On we go.
Two crew members on the platform and two crew members in the tender just kind of grabbed you and pushed/pulled you in when the tender got close to the platform. I was glad I had long legs because just as they pulled me in, the tender bobbed down so the step in was longer than anticipated.
I should have been awarded a gold medal for not falling flat on my face. You were told to wear sturdy shoes. I have a pair of thick leather tennis shoes that I call my “Frankenstein shoes” that I wear in these situations. They are certainly not fashionable, but they are the ultimate in sturdy.
Many passengers, a lot less steady on their feet than me, had on backless crocs with socks. How the shoes stayed on their feet and the people stayed upright is beyond me. I know the crew was happy when the tender process was over for the day.
Once we got to the town dock, the water was calm because we were in a small, protected bay area. The tour bus was already there waiting. It was very nice. It wasn’t full so Chuck and I each got a seat by the window. Also, there was a door in front and a door toward the back, so it made getting on and off so much faster.
I was fascinated by the ever-changing Icelandic landscape as we drove to our first stop. A lot of the drive was by the coast but just on the other side, the mountains looked like the background of the Jurassic Park movies. Our guide said that Iceland is the second biggest island in Europe after Britain.
The ride to the first stop was over an hour. He gave us a lot of information – some of which we had heard in Reykjavik but it was still interesting. He pointed out the many swans that come to Iceland in this area every summer. He said they will migrate away some time in August.
We had to go through a long tunnel just before we got to our first stop. He said the tunnel is unusual because many times the weather on one side of the tunnel is completely different from the other side. He may have been joking with us but when we exited the tunnel we were now in very sunny weather. So weird.
According to the description the first stop was supposed to be a small fishing town, but it was the Horse Farm. We stopped at the little house for a bathroom break and then rode the bus down the lane to see the horses.
The owner had riders demonstrate the different gaits the horses can have. She said Icelandic horses perform well in national and international competitions.
But she also said that not all horses are meant to be ridden. They are dinner. She prefers horse meat to beef. I started thinking about the meat soup I had in Reykjavik. What did I eat?
The Icelandic horses were smaller than horses than I am used to seeing but very sturdy and are said to withstand the cold very well. Many rural Icelanders still prefer to travel by horse rather than cars. No other breed of horse is allowed in Iceland. We enjoyed talking with the riders and petting the horses.
We also got to pet the two Icelandic sheep dogs. They were more interested in getting treats.
In addition, there was an unusual looking bird that kept flying around. The horse farm owner didn’t know the English name for it. She told us the Icelandic name, but I can’t even begin to spell it.
And the flies/gnats were back but they didn’t seem to be biting. Lesson learned – never assume.
They served us hot coffee / hot chocolate and some pastries. The description said homemade, but I think the cookies were store bought. The brownie was good though.
Our next stop the tour guide said would be the biggest glacier in Europe outside of the Arctic area. You could see two in the distance from the horse farm.
Playing with my B/W settings
He also said that some of the glaciers in Iceland have volcanoes underneath them and they call those areas the “Battle of the Ice and Fire.” To get out there, we had to drive over a very rocky dry riverbed. I was glad I didn’t have to take my vehicle over those rocks.
We walked up to the ridge where the guide said the Glacier used to be a very long time ago. The view was stunning – almost a lunar look to the lagoon and the Glacier. We got to spend about an hour here, but I could have spent much more time just soaking in the beauty. With the sun out, we actually felt warm enough to take off the jackets.
On our way back to the ship, we stopped at the small harbor town for a rest room break. The guide said they would like to have cruise ships stop at this harbor, but it is too shallow for them. I had time to walk around and take a few photos.
I got my first picture of an Icelandic cat. He had the same expression on his face that my cat does when I am trying to take his picture – “Be gone petty human – I am in no mood to be adoredat this time.”
We took the same highway back to the port, so the ride took about an hour. Therefore, what was advertised as a 5-hour excursion was more like a 7-hour excursion when you factor in the tender operation to and from the ship. So, there was not really enough time to visit the small town.
However, the tender ride back to the ship was much easier than this morning because the seas were much calmer. But it was cold and windy again.
We got back to the room only to find the dreaded notification and our now itchy spots from the bug bites.
FLOWERS FROM DJUPIVOGUR:
Travel Trivia
Djupivogur, Iceland
Pronunciation: DYU-peh-vo-ger (hard “g”)
Djúpivogur is home to Langabúð, one of Iceland’s oldest commercial buildings – built in 1790. Langabúð served many purposes, being a warehouse and slaughterhouse. Today, it is home to a café, the heritage museum and an exhibition on the Icelandic sculptor Ríkarður Jónsson, who was native to the village.
The pyramid-shaped mountain named Búlandstindur near Djupivogur dominates the landscape, and according to legend, it can make wishes come true during the summer solstice.
The Búlandsnes bird sanctuary is renowned among bird lovers throughout the world, where you can observe most Icelandic birds nesting in their natural habitat close by.
Though home to less than 500 people, Djúpivogur is a major attraction, largely due to its public works of art, most notably ‘The Eggs of Merry Bay’ which sits along the coast of Berufjörður. It is also known for being a ‘Cittaslow’ town, meaning the community values a slow-paced way of life.
I just thought there had to be a mistake on tonight’s menu. It was a Gala menu, but the dress code was casual. Chuck went to the dining room to check, and they told him it was correct. We sat at a table for 4 with a couple from Ohio. They also moved us to the 5th floor dining room. There were so few people I think they were just trying to combine all the diners into one dining room.
I had the shrimp cocktail, tomato soup, and we both had the filet mignon with crab meat sauce.
Because the ship was in port overnight, all the shops and the casino were closed. The main stage was showing the movie Death on the Nile. I had already seen it and Chuck did not care to see it. Luckily, the Ocean Bar band was playing all 3 sets tonight. We danced and laughed until 11:00 pm.
Woke up with room service knocking on our door with our coffee. Problem was that we did not order room service this morning. They had the wrong room – Oh, so very sorry. Well, it was 9:30 and past time to get up anyway. I went to the Cafe’ and got us some coffee.
We had no plans for today and debated on whether to go look around the city or not. The weather was drizzly, and we would have to take a cab or shuttle to the downtown area. We decided to stay on the ship.
Another crew drill began at 10:00 with the shrill alarms. We had missed breakfast, so I went to the Café to get us another cup of coffee. They had just brought out their pastries, and I saw slices of carrot cake. Yay! It is my favorite cake, and the ship doesn’t offer it very much. I brought back a slice to share. So good!
I gave myself a manicure and watched the Future Cruise presentation and the Shore Excursion presentation on the television.
Chuck went to the Sea View area and talked with Glen-Michael, the Cruise and Travel Director. Turns out he is actually the Cruise Line’s Head of Travel Experience and is only subbing on this trip as the Cruise Director to give the previous Cruise Director a vacation. Apparently, he does that for other cruise directors on other HAL ships too.
All aboard was 2:30 today. At 2:30, there was an announcement asking for two guests to call Guest Services. That usually means that the ship has a record of them leaving the ship but no record of them coming back to the ship.
Sometimes, the scanner fails and doesn’t read your ship card when you return – thus the call to Guest Services to verify that you are back. Or it may mean that you are late coming back to the ship – that is bad.
At 2:45, the ship blew the horn. If you are in the vicinity of the ship and are not back on it, this horn blast is the Captain giving you one last chance to run for the ship. I’ve seen a number of pier runners in Cozumel. At 3:00, the Captain set sail. I hope the guests were on the ship.
It was nice scenery of the Reykjavik skyline and the pilot boat heading back as we sailed away.
All of a sudden, it was to time to get ready for our dinner at the Pinnacle Grill.
Typical evening of some slot play, listening to the piano player at the Ocean Bar, and then going to the dining room about 6:30. We had a table for two. I made a comment to Chuck that the dining room was practically empty. I guess one of the dining room managers heard me as he came over and said that at 5:00 people were lined up at the door ready to come in, but they were all cleared out at about 6:00. I guess they all go to the 7:00 show and then to bed.
Also, we heard someone say “Zuiderdam” twice. We looked around and a couple from a few tables over said, “We recognize you from the Zuiderdam on the French Polynesia cruise.” We waved back acknowledged that yes, we were on that cruise. I confess that I did not recognize them.
I had the curried cauliflower soup which was spicier than I was ready for, so I almost started coughing. You really don’t want to cough, especially in the dining room, because everyone whirls around and gives you the stink eye. I drank some water to stifle the throat tickle. I also had the Boston lettuce leaf salad. For my main course I had the lamb shank.
Chuck had the seafood cake with salmon on the side as an appetizer. The salmon was raw. He ate some of it and got a funny look on his face. It wasn’t long before he had to leave the table. He did come back and eat his beef short ribs, but I knew he wasn’t feeling well.
We came back to the room, and he immediately went to bed. He told me to go ahead and attend the comedian’s show, but I stayed in the room and finished processing some photos.
Woke up before the alarm. I had slept fitfully. Weather was cloudy. Since we had an early tour, we had breakfast delivered to the room at 7:00. Chuck was feeling much better than the night before.
Today was not a tender port. We were docked in an industrial area and would be here overnight. The city was offering free shuttles to the port entrance or shuttles to the downtown area for $11 one way. I was not sure if our private tour group was going to be at the gate or if we would have to take the shuttle to the port entrance. I contacted the coordinator of this private tour, and she wasn’t sure either.
The beginning of our tour started out inauspiciously. We headed to the gangway at 8:00 as we were told by the coordinator to be at the bus between 8:00 and 8:15. However, before we could get to Deck A and the gangway, a HAL employee told us to wait for the “all clear” announcement. Then, the “all clear” announcement came about 8:15 with the direction that the Icelandic government wanted everyone to have their vaccine card so you could enter businesses and restaurants. Had to go back to the room to get those cards.
We ended up being the last two people on our shuttle at 8:30. Everyone else on the shuttle had just walked off the gangway prior to 8:00. I guess they didn’t run into the same HAL employee that we did. We explained what happened and having to retrieve our cards. Since they got off before the announcement, most didn’t have their vaccine cards although some said they had them on their phones. I am surprised the tour shuttle waited for us. They all looked at us disapprovingly like “there is always someone who can’t be on time.”
The tour today was provided by Your Day Tours and the description of the tour was
THINGVELLIR – The first stop of the day is the national park Thingvellir, which is full of history and natural beauty. It has a special place in the hearts of all Icelanders, all the way back to the Viking time when they founded here the first parliament in the world.
We will have enough time to walk around and explore this wonderful place. We will have the opportunity to walk in the rift valley, where the tectonic plates are pulling apart. This is the closest you can get to being in two continents at the same time, since under the national park the Eurasian plate and the American plate are separating by almost an inch every year.
Thingvellir was designated as a World Heritage of UNESCO in 2004.
In the area there are restrooms and coffee shops for visitors.
GULLFOSS – The wonderful Gullfoss is in our opinion one of the most beautiful waterfalls on earth. It is one of the biggest waterfalls in Iceland and there is a beautiful story about the waterfall which your guide will tell you.
When Canadians and Americans go there, they call it “the mini-version of Niagara falls”, we don’t know if we agree on that though, if you ask us, it’s even prettier. The waterfall is located close to the second biggest glacier in Iceland, Langjökull, and you will see the fresh glacier water falling down 105 feet total into the canyon.
Gullfoss is beautiful from all angles, from above it looks perfect with the Icelandic nature around. In the summertime it is possible to walk all the way down to Gullfoss and feel its power and spraying water in the air.
GEYSIR – Geysir is the most famous hot spring in the world, no doubt. It’s that famous that people from other countries talk about “Geyser” when talking about erupting hot springs. Geysir is located only an 8-minute drive from Gullfoss and is our third big attraction of the day.
Geysir is the father of all the hot springs in the area, and first erupted hundreds of years ago. The “golden age” for Geysir was in the beginning of last century when it erupted up to 200 feet every half an hour. Geysir fell asleep late last century but woke up again after the earthquakes in Haukadalur area in the year 2000. It was erupting for 4 months, with a little help from the locals who put soap in it to make it erupt. They stopped doing that due to environmental reasons, of course. Geysir has been sleeping since the fall of the year 2000.
The only active erupting hot spring in the area is “the son of Geysir”, called Strokkur. Strokkur erupts every 3 to 8 minutes and goes as high as 115 feet. Strokkur is a spectacular hot spring, seeing this active hot spring erupt just a few miles from the glacier is a once in a lifetime experience.
This is our lunch stop. There are restaurants at the Geysir area where you can have burgers, salads, traditional Icelandic meat soup (our favorite) and much more. If you want to bring your own lunch with you, we let our customers eat in the bus, especially if the weather is bad.
We will have time to check out the hot springs (no bathing allowed!) and also time to have lunch.
SECRET LAGOON – The last stop of the day is the Secret Lagoon known in Iceland as the “Old pool” since it is the oldest geothermal pool on the island, founded in 1891.
It is nothing more relaxing after a day out in the Icelandic nature then end the day in a geothermal pool. In Iceland we do have more than 100 geothermal pools all over the country and it is a big part of the Icelandic culture to go there to relax. The Secret Lagoon is different from the pools in Reykjavik for example, the area is all covered in mossy lava fields and many hot springs all around. There is a little hot spring there which erupts every 4-6 minutes.
If you feel too hot it is nice to stand up and walk around the area on the walking paths around the pool.
The water is about 100 – 104 degrees Fahrenheit.
Before you enter the pool, the staff will tell you the rules and what should be kept in mind when visiting the pool.
Remember to bring towels and swimsuits with you, but they can be rented by extra cost at the lagoon.
We stop in the pool for about 90 minutes.
Our driver’s name was Ligo, and he was the father of the sons who run the tour company. The van was a 16-passenger van and there were 12 of us. However, the seats and the aisles were very narrow and there was not much leg room between you and the people in front of you. I think even less than what they give you on airplanes.
THINGVELLIR
We saw the largest lake in Iceland. It has brown trout measuring around 3 feet and researchers study their behavior in the winter when the fish all gather together in the bottom of the river leading to the lake and stay there. The lake also has three types/sizes of Char. The guide said that most lakes only have one type of Char. He said people come from all over the world, especially Europe, to fish the rivers and lakes of Iceland. He said a favorite snack of Icelanders is dried fish. Hmmm. Think I will stick with Cheetos as my go-to snack.
Next stop was the area of the Tectonic plate separation. We walked the path between the North American and the Euro Asian plates. The bugs from both sides were ready for us. We spent about 45 minutes walking along the path. Ligo brought the van around to the end of the path. Ligo said this area was considered a sacred place to Icelanders as it was an area where they first formed their government.
As we drove to our next stop, we saw all kinds of sheep just wandering around in the fields and along the road. They are not wild because when they are rounded up, the farmers know which ones belong to which farmer by a notch or a tag on the sheep’s ear.
We also passed a power plant and its pipeline that brings steam to houses, businesses, and green houses for heating. They have to import items such as corn and barley, but the green houses can produce vegetables like tomatoes, cucumbers, etc. They do not use oil or coal to heat. Of course, the trade-off is that the hot water/steam is readily available because of all the volcanic activity that is rumbling underneath Iceland.
GULLFOSS WATERFALL
Our next stop was Gullfoss a 105-foot waterfall. Some people walked the path to get very close to it and came back damp. Chuck and I chose to watch from a distance. I was not yet ready to get wet.
Ligo told us the story of Sigríður Tómasdóttir who went on a hunger strike and walked 75 miles to bring attention to saving the area of the waterfall. Her memory is commemorated with a sculpture of her overlooking her beloved falls.
Yes, Ligo said some people have gone over the falls either accidentally or on purpose every year. Got to watch where you are stepping trying to get that perfect selfie. I watched a mother and two daughters leaning back over the rope barrier, and suddenly one of the daughters’ feet slid a little on the gravel while they were trying to get a selfie. I thought they were going to go over the rope. The mother pulled them forward. They moved farther away from the rope and closer to the walkway. Good decision.
HORSE FARM
Ligo said we had time for a short stop at a small horse farm to see some Icelandic horses. I knew one of our later tours was going to take us to a horse farm, but I was glad to see these horses too.
No, he’s not a horse but he was cute
GEYSER (GEYSIR)
Our next stop was to see the geyser area. It would also be our lunch stop if we chose to eat. We did. The place was very crowded. Found out there were two other ships in port today. All the different tour busses seemed to converge on this place at once.
I was able to muscle my way to the deli line and got a bowl of the recommended meat soup for me and a chicken sandwich for Chuck. I forgot to pick up a drink, but we had water in our backpack. Used our no-foreign-transaction-fee credit card to pay for the meal as the prices were in Icelandic Krona. Will be curious to see what the amount will be when I look at the statement later. Chuck thinks it will be around $30. I just know Iceland is expensive. The soup was delicious.
After a bathroom stop, we walked across the street to see the geyser named “Strokkur” – Little Brother. The large geyser – “Geysir” – Old Man has not erupted since 2000 but Ligo said you never know if it will go off again. Strokkur erupts every 5 to 7 minutes. It was right on time. We watched it erupt twice. It was fun but not as impressive as Old Faithful in my opinion.
Ligo warned us not to touch the water that runs by the walking path. There were also signs along the path that warned you. Some people (not in our tour group) ignored everything and walked off the marked path for a short-cut to the geyser. Oh well, can’t fix stupid. Ligo said several people get scalded badly each year.
176-212 degrees Fahrenheit
The sun came out while we were there, and it was very pleasant. Then, it suddenly clouded up, got colder, and started to drizzle. Ligo said “Welcome to Iceland.” The rain did not last long.
SECRET LAGOON
Our next stop was the one I was looking forward to the most – a swim in a natural hot spring. It is called the Secret Lagoon and is smaller than the famous Blue Lagoon but said to be just as warm.
Getting ready to get into the hot spring is not for the modest or shy. At the first room, everyone takes off their shoes and socks and leaves them on shelves. Next, there are changing/shower rooms separated by gender. The only space in this room for privacy is the bathroom. The requirement is that you put your street clothes in the locker and take the key. Next, you shower au naturel alongside others and the shower heads are just lined up on one long wall – no stalls separating them. Then, you put on your swimsuit, and you can enter the hot springs.
I figured I wouldn’t know anyone so who cares? I forgot that there would be other women on this same tour from the same ship that I would probably see later every day. Okay, just ignore them. With COVID face masks on in the ship, you don’t know who anyone is anyway. But who knew that women would want to chat with each other while completely naked? Geez. Really?
I just want to get showered and get my swimwear on. No, sorry, I don’t know the cost of a glass of wine here. Yes, I’m sure there is a menu somewhere. OMG.
Being wet from the shower, I struggled to get into my swimsuit. Seemed to take forever to get it past my thighs. I was pulling so hard on the material I am glad I didn’t rip it. I was so happy when I could finally walk out to the hot spring area.
The attendants warned you not to wear any jewelry as it would tarnish and that if you got your hair wet in the spring water, it might feel coarse for a day or two. They also warned you not to get close to the springs outside of the fenced pool area as they were too hot. Those springs fed the pool area and would start to cool as it dissipated. There were two lifeguards monitoring all the swimmers at all times.
I hung my towel up on the hooks provided and carefully walked to the pool as the concrete was very slick. The water was only waist deep for me, but the bottom was rocky and in some parts slick. They supplied noodles that you could use to float. The closer you got to the far wall, the hotter the water became. I thought it was heavenly.
I found Chuck and some of the other tour participants and we talked and bobbed around for about an hour. I was glad Chuck liked the water as I wasn’t sure he would. He doesn’t like water as hot as I like it as he has told me numerous times when I forget and leave our shower set to my heat preference.
I brought my iPhone into the pool with me as I had it in its waterproof case. I took pictures of some of us and shared it with others. And I let others take pictures with it. I always held it out of the water as I think of the waterproof case as a safeguard in case I do drop it. I’ve seen people take theirs in the water while snorkeling, but I don’t risk it.
Dried, dressed, and back on the bus it was time to go back to the ship. On the way back, Ligo pointed out all the evergreen trees we were seeing. He said that these trees are not native. There is so much lava in the soil it stunts the growth of the only kind of native tree – a type that I thought looked similar to aspens – sometimes didn’t grow higher than bushes. In fact, he said that if you ever find yourself lost in an Iceland natural forest, just stand up and you will find your way.
Native Icelandic trees
These evergreens are planted in order to try and get more trees in Iceland. The government is supporting farmers that want to transition to tree farming.
We arrived back at the ship at 5:00. The line was very long to get back into the ship. I finally noticed why. The tide was low, and the entrance ramp had a steep ramp going down to the doorway. You also had to duck low under the padded doorway to get in. They should have been playing music so we could all Limbo into the ship.
Even though the van was kind of cramped, we enjoyed the sites and all the commentary from Ligo. I would recommend Your Day Tours to anyone who wants to experience the Golden Circle of Reykjavik. (FYI – Nobody ever asked to see our vaccine cards – Sigh)
A FLOWER of REYKJAVIK
Travel Trivia
Reykjavik, Iceland
Pronounced: RAY-kah-vik
Reykjavik is believed to be the location of the first permanent settlement in Iceland and is the world’s northernmost capital of a sovereign state.
Steam from hot springs in the region is said to have inspired Reykjavík’s name, which loosely translates to Smoke Cove or Smokey Bay.
In 1972, Reykjavík hosted the world chess championship between Bobby Fischer and Boris Spassky.
From May 20 to July 24, daylight is essentially permanent as the sun never gets more than 5° below the horizon. Day length drops to less than five hours between December 2 and January 10.
Reykjavik is also known as the Puffin Capital of the World as it is the only capital with its own colony of Puffins. Iceland is home to 60% of the Puffin population in the world.
The most prominent landmark in Reykjavik is Hallgrímskirkja church in the city’s center. It is one of the largest and finest churches in Iceland. The church is 240 feet high and is visible from almost any point in the city.
*Trivia provided by Wikipedia and Holland America documents
As we got farther away from the Greenland coast, the water continued to get rougher. I heard several people say their traveling companion(s) had taken to their room already. My Bonine is working fine, thank goodness.
We did not see anything on the main dining room menu that we had to have so back to the Lido we went. I was not very hungry at all, so I just had a bowl of mushroom and wild rice chowder. Chuck had some spicy beef from the Asian station. They also had a special Indonesian station set up which had not been advertised. It should have been advertised because from past trips, I know this is a popular option among the guests.
After dinner, I went back to the room to catch up on some of my postings. Again, I found 2 surprises – one good and one bad. The good one was a gift of Pinnacle Grill chocolates for Chuck from the Casino.
The bad one was a note saying the clocks would move forward another hour. Between the time changes and the fact that it is still light outside even after 10:00, it’s a wonder I have any clue at all about what is going on.
I tried to upload our day in Qaqortok into WordPress but ended up losing everything I had written because the crappy Internet connection had timed out. So frustrating. I am going to write the narrative in Word from now on and save it to the hard drive. I will copy it to WordPress when I have stronger Internet access.
Chuck and I went to see the show by Karen Grainger, the song impressionist. We had skipped the earlier show in the week but then heard how good it was. She is leaving the ship in Reykjavik, so we wanted to catch this show. She was very good.
It is amazing how she can mimic the voices of so many singers for example Adele, Cher, Dolly, Reba, Celine, Brittney, and even Willie (Nelson). She ended the show by singing a song in her own voice which was beautiful in its own right.
After the show, Chuck went to play 3-card poker and I went to the room. I told him I was not going to set the alarm. If he woke up before I did, go ahead and go to breakfast. I might sleep all day.
I knew I would probably miss Jon’s last presentation and maybe even the Captain’s Q/A session, but I didn’t care. I was very tired and our tour in Reykjavik on Monday starts early and will last nine hours. It’s not like I have been working but the time changes have finally gotten to me. I admire the crew as they too must endure the time changes, still be at work on time, and they all have smiles on their faces and a friendly word to everyone. I, on the other hand, wake up looking like Grumpy Cat.
Well, I did sleep to almost 9:30 so I definitely missed Jon’s presentation. I went to get coffee and the baristas said they were glad to see me. They were worried about me because I was late. They are sweet young women.
The dining room was having a special Sunday brunch, so we decided to eat there. I enjoyed my lunch of Greek yogurt for the appetizer, mushroom crepe for the main course, and Poffertjes for dessert. They were nickel-sized puffy pancakes with powdered sugar.
Chuck was not really impressed with his lunch – Ham & Gruyere Monte Christo Sandwich with fries. The service was really slow, and his fries had started to cool off before he got his meal. However, I think they must have zapped my crepes twice in the microwave because steam came out of them, and the mushrooms burned my tongue. We sat at a table of 6 and at least the lively conversation made the time pass by pleasantly.
Only thing about sleeping late is that the day goes by so quickly. It was after twelve before we finished brunch. My plan for the rest of the day was simple and not strenuous. (1) Get our backpacks ready for the tour tomorrow – which includes a stop at the Secret Lagoon, so we need our swimwear too. We will start too early tomorrow to be grabbing stuff and hoping we don’t forget anything. (2) Put away the laundry that was delivered. (3) Process all the photos from our scenic cruising yesterday. (4) Go to dinner.
With all the time changes and the long days, my internal clock is all messed up. We were playing some slots in the Casino, and I looked at my watch and it was almost 8:00. We had not eaten dinner. We decided to go to the Lido again. I had the Taiwanese pork and lamb with noodles. They gave me too much, so Chuck had to help me finish it.
After dinner, it was time for the show. Cantare was performing again. Tonight’s show was “All In” and it featured songs by various musical groups – Beatles, Rolling Stones, Four Tops, etc. I enjoyed it but I could feel my eyes getting heavy. I knew I would be calling it a night. Chuck decided he was ready to sleep also.
Ever since we left Qaqortok, we had been sailing in dense fog. The ship’s foghorn was sounding every few minutes. I assumed it would be going off all night. I was glad I brought ear plugs. When we got back to the room, we had one piece of good news but two pieces of bad news.
The good news – Prins Christian Sund (Prince Christian Sound) exit point had not clogged up with ice so we could do the scenic sailing through it instead of having to go out to sea around Greenland. There had been hints from the Cruise Director throughout the day that we might not be able to make it.
The bad news – (1) we have to set our clocks forward one more hour. OMG. My internal clock is going to take another hit. (2) we have had an uptick in COVID cases among passengers and crew, so masks are now mandatory inside and also outside if you are in a big crowd. Until now, masks have been optional. Know there are going to be some very unhappy people. Oh well. You sign a contract when you board saying that you will follow the Captain’s orders.
I was correct. The fog horn sounded all night long. I was so happy for my earplugs. I don’t know how Chuck slept through it. Up at 6:00 again and by the time we were finished with our Lido breakfast, we had entered the first channel of Prins Christian Sund. It was about 35 degrees when we went outside. Would only rise to 43. The clouds covered the tops of most of the mountains on both sides of the Sund. Blue skies would peak through every now and then.
During the transit, the bow was open to anyone who wanted to go out there. We spent about 30 minutes there. We also spent time on the Sea View deck enjoying their coffee specials. Chuck had coffee and Jameson and I had hot chocolate and Bailey’s. The crew would also come around with small cups of Dutch pea soup. I enjoyed it so much that I had a bowl of it for lunch.
We spent the majority of the day, bundled up, and on our balcony watching the scenery go by. As Chuck said, it was like watching a nature channel on a giant screen TV. Jon, our speaker, gave periodic commentary that you could hear over the outside speakers or inside on channel 44 of your TV.
It took 8 hours to go through the entire Sund from east Greenland to west Greenland. We met two other cruise ships going in the opposite direction – an MSC and an AIDA. Jon said he had never seen so much traffic on the Sund. LOL. When the ships would blow their horns in greeting as they passed, you could hear the echo for quite a few minutes.
We saw so many beautiful waterfalls, icebergs, and glaciers that I lost count of them all. It was a wonderful day.
ICEBERGS:
WATERFALLS:
GLACIERS:
One of the most interesting sites was to sail by the small Inuit town of 120 residents – Aappilattoq. It is the only town on the Sund. They get supplies once a week by ship during the summer and by helicopter whenever it can fly during the winter. Cruise ships have also donated supplies at times. They eat seal and fish as their main food sources. They also process fish for export. They have a school, a church, and a small grocery store.
Isolated – Surrounded by Mountains
One resident came out to greet us in his speed boat and sped around the ship. Don’t know if he stopped on the other side for supplies or just circled the ship.
We exited the Sund at about 3:30 and immediately the water got rougher. We will be doing this transit on the way back to our other port in Greenland, and I hope we have another beautiful day for it.
It was now time to get unbundled and ready for the evening’s activities.
Travel Trivia
Prins Christian Sund
The Prins Christian Sund connects the Labrador Sea with the Irminger Sea. It is around 60 miles long and it is narrow, sometimes only 1,600 ft wide.
The Sund separates Greenland’s mainland from the Cape Farewell Archipelago, a group of islands off of Greenland’s southern tip.
It was named after Christian VIII (before he became the king of Denmark), but explorer John Cabot’s description is more accurate and more evocative: a river of melted snow.
At the entrance to the East to the Strait there is a weather station founded by the US during World War II under the name Bluie East One. The task of the weather station was to ensure that the shipping industry had reliable data on the weather at Cape Farewell, Greenland. On January 7, 1959, when the ship MS Hans Hedtoft hit an iceberg at Cape Farvel, the radio telegraphist at the weather station at Prince Christian Sound was the first to catch the ship’s distress signal.
*Trivia provided by Wikipedia and Holland America documents
We spent some time before dinner playing some slots. Even though the ship’s casino is small, it does have some fun slots.
We decided to eat in the Lido tonight. Most of the nights they have many of the same entrees that are served in the main dining room. Since Chuck had a number of raffle tickets for the drawing at 8:00, he wanted to be sure he was present.
I got a bowl of the tomato soup and I went to the Asian station and got some of their noodles and crispy duck. Delicious. I also splurged and had the crepe chef create a dessert crepe for me – chocolate and blueberries. I did share it with Chuck.
Afterwards, he returned to the casino for the raffle, and I went to the Ocean Bar to listen to the Band. Had excellent dance music during this set.
At 9:00, we went to watch tonight’s performance at the main stage – a comedian. He was a former teacher and had some pretty good stories.
Once his show was over, we went to the Ocean Bar Band’s last set. It was supposed to be a Motown hour, but the first song was “Fly me to the Moon” which was definitely not Motown. We listened to the whole set. Not one Motown song. Oh well. Time to say good night.
The Captain indicated that we might have some rough seas last night, and he wasn’t kidding. The ship was really rocking from side to side.
When I got up at 6:00 and opened the curtains I was greeted with an unexpected site – icebergs. They were all shapes and sizes. The water was as calm as a pond. I could see Greenland in the distance.
Once we had finished breakfast in the Lido, the Cruise Director announced that the ship had been cleared by local authorities and they were lowering the tender boats. We were an hour earlier than expected. The Cruise Director said the weather would be cloudy with a chance of rain and cold. We put our rain gear in the backpacks and got our jackets.
The first thing you notice about Qaqortoq, the largest town (a little over 3000 inhabitants) and the Southern Greenland capital, is its colorful saltbox buildings.
The next thing you notice is the flying, biting bugs. We did remember bug spray which seemed to help. Chuck also wore the head net as they still preferred him over me even with bug spray. If we had gone straight to the little grocery/general store, we could have bought another one. By the time we got there, they had sold out. However, I did see one woman with a head net that looked familiar. Turns out it was the mesh bag that the HAL robe comes in. Fit just perfectly. Ingenious. I will take it next time and use it if I can’t find one to buy. I understand this is not the last port that is known for annoying flies.
The third thing you better notice is how fast the locals drive, and pedestrians did not appear to have the right of way. If you are in the road taking a picture, you better be ready to jump to the side of the road if one of their vehicles comes careening around a curve (speaking from experience).
We had no big plans today except to explore the town. It is walkable if you don’t mind hills and steps. First landmark we found was the 1927 fountain. It is the oldest fountain in Greenland. I was told that the white stones surrounding the fountain and found throughout the town lining roads and paths are there to symbolize the icebergs that flow around Qaqortok.
We went to the Qaqortok Museum built in 1804 as a residence.
It had a nice assortment of Inuit, Danish, and Norwegian artifacts. We bought a ticket for $10 pp. The ticket entitled you to enter this Museum, the smaller Norse Museum, and the 1832 Savior Church. We spent some time looking at the items.
Upstairs, they had information about the MS Hans Hedtoft – a Danish cargo passenger liner that struck an iceberg and sank on 30 January 1959 on her maiden voyage off the coast of Western Greenland. The only piece of the wreckage ever found was a lifebelt. As of today, she remains the last known ship sunk by an iceberg with casualties.
As we continued walking, we found some of the “Stone and Man” carvings chiseled into rocks and rock walls by former inhabitants.
We enjoyed the other art pieces that we found throughout the town.
We continued walking past the bank, the new church, restaurants, and the only hotel in Qaqortok. We also perused the grocery store. I had to restrain myself from buying a ginormous raisin bun from the grocery bakery. The locals were walking their dogs, chatting on the sidewalk, and buying groceries. The children were having recess. All seemed oblivious to the throngs of people wandering their town.
We did not walk to the cemetery, but I took a picture from a distance because I had not seen crosses like that except in military cemeteries.
We decided to take a tender back to the ship for lunch. The Norse Museum and the Church did not open until 1:00. Once we ate, Chuck decided to stay and enjoy the pool and the hot tub. I changed my jacket to my blue jean shirt because the sun had come out and it was getting warm. I was glad the weather forecast was wrong.
I took a tender back over and went straight to the Norse Museum. It was a small museum but had a number of Norse items and furnishings from the family of the founder.
I then walked over to the Church but there appeared to be a meeting or a service going on, so I didn’t go inside. Just took some photos of the outside.
The last item on the agenda before I went back to the ship was to visit the souvenir shop. There were no Christmas ornaments, per se. However, I found a small hand-carved spoon out of driftwood signed by the carver. I will tie a ribbon around it and use it as an ornament.
Once I returned from the ship, I spent time processing some of my photos. When Chuck came to the room, it was time to get ready for the evening. It was a nice day in Greenland.
Qaqortok flowers:
Travel Trivia
Qaqortoq, Greenland
Pronounced: KACK-or-TOCK
The area around Qaqortoq has been inhabited since prehistoric times. Beginning with the Saqqaq culture roughly 4,300 years ago, the area has had a continuous human presence.
The ruins of Hvalsey – the most prominent Norse ruins in Greenland – are located 12 miles northeast of Qaqortoq.
Roughly two-thirds of all tourists to Qaqortoq are from Denmark.
*Trivia provided by Holland America and Qaqortok tourist information.
