S. America-Antarctica Cruise – Page 2 – Fondest Travel Memories

SA: Puerto Madryn, Argentina

Saturday, January 28, 2023

Table shuffleboard all tied up at 4-4. There will be a championship match before the end of the cruise.

We had another table for six in the main dining room. The service was so slow that by the time I got my food, I inhaled it without taking a photo. Chuck and I each had the chicken scallopini. It was very good.

Tonight’s main stage program was another BBC Planet Earth movie. We skipped it and went to the Rolling Stone Lounge. We only stayed for one set because of our early excursion.

Slept fitfully but got up with the alarm at 6:00. Room service breakfast was delivered at 6:50. Got to get ready to see some more penguins!

We had a HAL tour entitled “Best of Puerto Madryn: Punta Tombo Reserve.” The tour description states

About the Excursion – 7.5 hours

Puerto Madryn is the stepping-off point for at least two of Argentina’s most exciting Natural Parks — the Valdes Peninsula and Punta Tombo.

The Punta Tombo Nature Reserve, which you will visit today, is world renowned as perhaps the finest spot from which to view Magellan penguins. It is located 111 miles from the city of Puerto Madryn and will afford you the truly unusual experience of observing the Magellan penguin at close range in its natural habitat. It is estimated that more than 450,000 penguins come here each year, and from November onwards it is possible to also see baby penguins leaving their nests.

As you quietly stroll along the footpath through the colony, the lovable and endearing penguins will not be afraid of you. They are used to having visitors, and the visitors’ code of conduct, explained by your guide, ensures that disturbance to the birds is minimal. You will learn about how the Magellan penguins mate for life — the female lays two eggs each year, which the male and female then brood and raise together.

Notes: A box lunch is included. Travel time to Punta Tombo is approximately 2½ hours each way. The road is unpaved and dusty in places. Due to Puerto Madryn’s remote location, the standard of transportation used may be more basic than that in some other ports. Restrooms are available only at the rookery entrance and at the gas station during the ride. This tour is available only on select sailings due to time in port. It is essential that you wear warm, layered clothing in order to fully enjoy and participate in this excursion. Outer layer should be waterproof and windproof. Bring gloves, a warm hat and a scarf.

Met in the main stage and were quickly directed to the tour buses. So glad today was not another tender day. The gangway was a little steep from Deck 2 to the pier but at least there was no bobbing boat to have to get in and out of this morning.

The bus had comfortable seating, but the air conditioning did not work very well. Our tour guide is a teacher during the school year and does tour groups through the summer. She teaches English reading comprehension. Her English was excellent and the sound system in the bus worked well. She discussed many topics about Argentina and Patagonia. Made the time pass quickly.

The bus ride was about 2 hours – mostly on the highway but the last 30 minutes is on a bumpy dusty road. There is not much to see once you leave the city. We did get a bathroom break at a truck stop. There were lots of cars and trucks there, so I assume it was the only available one for miles around.

The landscape reminded me of southern Arizona (except for the large wind mills). We did see some sheep, a few horses, and some Guanacos – camelids native to South America that are closely related to the llama. Also saw several small make-shift religious shrines along the highway. Wondered who put them there and why.

I did not expect to see a life-size dinosaur statue. The guide told us that Argentina boasts some of the biggest dinosaur fossils ever found. She said this dinosaur was advertising the Museum of Paleontology Egidio Feruglio located in Trelew, Argentina.

While it would be interesting to see the fossils, I was looking forward to the encounter with more penguins. I was glad to finally get to the entrance of the rookery. As we took the opportunity for another bathroom break, our guide went to get our entrance tickets.

SA: Fifth Sea Day

Friday, January 27, 2023

We ate a late dinner at a table for 6. We were all so excited to talk about what we did that day that I forgot to take any photos of dinner. I had the butternut squash risotto and Chuck had the pork loin.

The day had caught up with me so I called it a night. Chuck still had energy for the Casino.

After coffee, we went to the main dining room for breakfast. Two of my favorite items on the menu: fresh squeezed orange juice and a raisin bun. We had a nice conversation with a British couple who had a special time on the Falklands. They were met by a friends of some of their UK friends and got a private tour of the entire island.

Chuck went to soak his knee in hot tub. I processed some of the photos and watched the TV presentation on our next two port stops – Puerto Madryn, Argentina and Punta del Este, Uruguay. The Cruise Director said the temperature tomorrow would reach 85 degrees. Time to store the wool cap and bring out the shorts for the next few days.

Did a stroll around the promenade for a mile. Still needed my jacket because of the wind.

Got two bags of laundry ready to go out as we are nearing the end of the cruise and they won’t be accepting laundry in a day or so. Got our notice to pick up our passports so I did that this afternoon. Glad to have them back in the safe.

We also received our certificate for crossing the Antarctic Circle and a map of all the places we visited in Antarctica.

Add a lunch and a nap and the fifth sea day was almost over.

SA: Port Stanley, Falkland Islands (part 3)

Thursday, January 26, 2023

We strolled along the cliff edge toward the Sea Cabbage Cafe.

The owners of the cafe also own the entire Cove land. In addition to the cafe and the penguin experience, they also raise sheep and sell items that are made from the wool there. She is a professional baker.

Chuck chose a cup of coffee, a cookie and a piece of peanut butter cake. I chose hot chocolate, a scone with the diddle-dee jam and cream, and a piece of lemon cake. Everything was excellent.

We walked through the small museum and gift shop. Chuck bought a very nice wool hat that was made with the Farm’s sheep wool.

June was picking us up there at the cafe so we sat on one of the picnic tables and watched the penguins on the beach. We could have walked out on the beach and some people did.

Real Sea Cabbage –

On the ride back, she pointed out some various battle sites and some local cows – the belted cows. They were too far away for my camera to get a good photo.

Once we got back to the port area, we chose to get on the next tender and go back to the ship. It had been a great day.

Travel Trivia

Stanley, Falkland Islands

The Falklands are a compact group of 740 islands with a total land area approximately the size of Connecticut. The Falkland Islands are a self-governing British Overseas Territory.

The name “Falkland Islands” comes from Falkland Sound, the strait that separates the two main islands. The name “Falkland” was applied to the channel by John Strong, captain of an English expedition which landed on the islands in 1690. Strong named the strait in honour of Anthony Cary, 5th Viscount of Falkland, the Treasurer of the Navy who sponsored his journey. Many South Americans still refer to the islands as Isla Malvinas, the original French-given name.

The islands’ vegetation is low and dense in a landscape with no natural tree growth.

There are over 500,000 breeding pairs of penguins consisting of 5 species: King, Gentoo, Rockhopper, Macaroni and Magellanic.

Approximately 65% of the world’s black-browed albatrosses live in the Falklands and it is the only place to see the Falklands steamer duck and Cobbs wren.

Four-fifths of the Falkland population live in Stanley. The islands’ British heritage is apparent in Stanley, where pubs, bright red mailboxes, and well-kept gardens are numerous.

Stanley’s weekly paper is named Penguin News.

Peat was once a prominent heating/fuel source in Stanley, and stacks of drying peat can still be seen by the occasional house.

Almost the whole area of the two main islands, outside of Stanley, is devoted to sheep farming.

SA: Port Stanley, Falkland Islands (part 2)

Thursday, January 26, 2023

The most popular penguin tour in the Falkland Islands is the 7 to 8 hour one that goes to see a large King penguin colony. I know HAL does that tour and I know of at least one independent tour operator that does the tour. I thought about signing up for this tour but the description said there would be a long time on rough road and I didn’t think my back could take it.

Instead I signed us up for HAL’s tour “Bluff Cove Penguin Rookery.” The tour description states

About the Excursion – 3 hours

King and Gentoo penguins and other bird species of the Falklands are the stars of this award-winning scenic, off-road excursion to Bluff Cove Lagoon — a privately owned wildlife haven.

Meet the Bluff Cove team on the pier and head out by minibus for a 20-minute journey through Stanley and across the rolling hills to Bluff Cove Farm. Transfer to a Land Rover 4×4 and relax as your skillful driver navigates the rugged off-road terrain for another 20 minutes.

Upon your arrival at the Bluff Cove Lagoon penguin rookery, knowledgeable and friendly rangers will brief you about what to expect and what to look for. Stroll through the penguin colony, which features a scenic backdrop of a large lagoon and a white, sandy beach that is occasionally patrolled by sea lions from the nearby island. This pristine reserve is home to more than 1,000 breeding pairs of gentoo penguins, which protect the growing colony of king penguins and their chicks. Magellanic penguins, which burrow on the nearby island, can also be found on the beach. Bird species that frequent or nest in the area include skuas, upland geese, ruddy-headed geese, Magellanic oystercatchers, South American terns, dolphin gulls, flightless Falkland steamer ducks, snowy sheathbills and southern giant petrels.

Warm up with a cup of tea, coffee or hot chocolate served at the legendary Sea Cabbage Café on the beach and enjoy delicious home-baked treats including scones with diddle-dee jam and fresh cream (gluten-free options available). Bask in the warmth and aroma of the peat stove while the enjoying splendid vistas of waves crashing on the sandy beach and penguins porpoising in.

The Bluff Cove Museum & Shop, also by the beach, depicts life in the Falklands and tells the story of Bluff Cove. Learn about the farm, the nearby 1863 ‘sugar wreck’, the 1982 war with Argentina and the fabulous lagoon wildlife.

You will have an hour of free time to take photographs, stroll along the beach and look around the museum. A small gift shop sells unique Bluff Cove souvenirs, including Bluff Cove tweed items made with the farm wool, and postcards that can be stamped and mailed from here. Look for samples of knitted, crocheted and felted local wool work displayed on the walls of the café and museum.

After an unforgettable visit, your Land Rover 4×4 driver will take you back to the minibus for the return journey to Stanley. Make the most of an opportunity to see the new Stanley Museum at the historic dockyard.

Notes: US dollars are accepted at the museum gift/souvenir shop. Modern restrooms are available at the café and museum. Tour involves traveling over rugged terrain in a Land Rover 4×4, and is not suitable for guests with back and/or neck problems. The 300-yard walk to the beach is mostly flat and there are courtesy vehicles ready to drive guests with mobility limitations. Assistance is available for guests using a wheelchair. Wear comfortable walking shoes and warm layered clothing with a windbreaker. Bring sunscreen.

A few minutes after 11:00, three vans showed up to pick us up. June was our driver. She has lived on the Falklands for 40 years. On the thirty-minute drive to the rookery, she talked about the 1982 War with Argentina, the current government, and the education system.

The van seating was tight and the aisle was very narrow to get to the seats. I was glad that the ride wasn’t too long. When we arrived at the rookery, we did not change vehicles. The van just bumped along the dirt road until we reached the penguins.

We were met at the site by the park ranger (they called them wardens). He told us to remain outside the white flags. If the penguins walked outside the flagged area, give them 6 feet of space. Don’t touch them. Don’t feed them.

There were so many penguins – King and Gentoo. I never did see any Magellanic penguins.

King –

Mom looking down at her chick (fuzzy gray object)

Gentoo –

There were other birds around also.

Skua – the penguins will put up a fuss when skua fly low if there are eggs or small chicks. Since the chicks are bigger now, the penguins were not as threatened (said the warden).

There was a skua flying overhead and one sitting on a bench. When the flying skua landed, the other skua jumped on him. It was a brief scuffle. One flew away and the other went to the bench. Penguins just kept going about their business.

A buzzard was also flying around but the penguins paid no attention to him. The geese just stayed in the field away from all the penguin commotion.

Before we made the walk to the cafe, we took one last look at a penguin high-stepping his way across the water.

SA: Port Stanley, Falkland Islands

Thursday, January 26, 2023

Prior to dinner, we had another table shuffleboard match. The score is now 4 – 3. Chuck is in the lead. I cannot let this situation stand. Another match will happen before the end of he cruise. Once he stopped bragging about being in the lead 😁, we played some slots and went to a late dinner in the Lido.

I got some pasta and a salad. Chuck had some red snapper, pulled pork and grilled Brussel sprouts.

Went to the main stage for Toni Warne’s 9:00 show. She is an excellent British vocalist who sang songs from Dolly Parton, Gladys Knight, Whitney Houston, and Barbra Streisand to name a few. When she came on stage, I realized we had seen her before on a previous ship. I am glad we attended her show.

When the show was over, we were able to get some photos of members of the Rolling Stone Lounge band members who had the evening off.

After the photo session, we called it a night. Hoping for an early day ashore tomorrow.

We ordered room service for breakfast which was a first for us this cruise. I know we will need to order it a couple of more times before this cruise ends (in one week from today). 😥 It was delivered about 15 minutes after the order time and he apologized for the delay, but I am sure they were slammed with people taking early tours and wanting an early breakfast. We only received one set of tableware, but I was able to make-do with a spoon since I had only ordered cereal and a fruit plate.

I am happy to report that Guest Services was correct about the tender process. Security checked our key cards to be sure we were 4-star mariners and let us go on to the tender platform.

Took a while for the tender to fill up and then it was about a 20-minute ride to the dock. It was one of those floating docks so the movement of it was a little unnerving, but we had made it to the Falklands!

The port area was busy as there was also a Norwegian cruise ship that was tendering in and another expedition-type ship that was bringing its guests ashore by zodiac.

As Kevin said in his port talk, all of the main attractions were to the right once you left the port area. The first one we came to that was open was the Christ Church Cathedral. It is the southernmost Anglican cathedral in the world. It is the parish church of the Falkland Islands, South Georgia and the British Antarctic Territories.

Adjacent to the cathedral is the Whalebone Arch, constructed in 1933 from the jawbones of two blue whales to commemorate the centenary of continuous British administration in the Falklands.

There were a number of war memorials.

We walked through one of the local stores. Chuck calculated that the prices were about double of what we pay at home. Of course, they have to import most everything.

We wanted to go to the Museum, but it had not yet opened.

The local police force was out keeping an eye on the crowds and answering questions. Easy to spot their vehicle.

We had walked as far as we wanted to go so we headed back to the port area. We were still too early for the tour, so we decided to walk to the left of the port area along the cove into the more residential area.

Because it was so much quieter on this side, there were more birds to be seen.

I really enjoyed watching the geese take off from the park area and land in the cove.

It was time to head back to the port area and meet up with the tour group. I was very excited about this tour – more penguins!

Flowers of Port Stanley

SA: Fourth Sea Day

Wednesday, January 25, 2023

Once I woke up from my nap, I went to find Chuck. He was in the middle of a hot poker game. Not wanting to interrupt a winning streak, I went over to the Piano Bar venue to order a drink and listen to some music.

HAL calls this area now Billboard Onboard and there are usually two piano players/singers performing. Typically, this area is very crowded in the evenings with many people in the audience singing along. At this time of the evening, the music was just piped in.

HAL’s Bloody Mary is always a work of art

Once the poker game broke up, we went to the main dining room for dinner. We were seated at a table for six tonight. The service was a bit chaotic. Nobody at our table got the correct appetizer. After the 3rd person said, “that’s not what I ordered – we just all started laughing.” I know the poor server was flustered. I just think they put the wrong table number on the tray. They brought out another tray of plates and all was correct.

Chuck and I each ordered the veal cordon bleu. He really enjoyed his. I thought mine was a little tough and chewy.

We played some slots until it was time for Daniel Ka’s second magic show of the cruise. I thought it was better than the first show.

After his show was over, we went to the last two sets of the Rolling Stone Lounge band. It was after midnight and was dark. We are moving north.

I slept later than usual and woke up to sunny skies and calmer seas. While I drank my coffee, I watched the Captain’s video discussing the predicted weather and wave conditions for the Falklands. The cruise before ours was not able to tender into the island. He seemed optimistic that we would be able to make it.

We went to the main dining room for breakfast. Chuck splurged on the steak and egg breakfast which has an upcharge.

After breakfast, Chuck went to the hot tub. I went to Jim’s presentation on the Falklands. I then watched the Cruise Director’s talk on Port Stanley that he gave yesterday but was now on the room television. We have a tour scheduled tomorrow but it doesn’t’ start until 11:00. I wanted to go early and walk around the town before the tour started so I wanted to hear his tips on what to do.

Since I wanted to be on an early tender tomorrow, I went by Guest Services to be sure I understood the process. In the past, 4 & 5 star mariners were told to go to a particular room to pick up our tender tickets (if we weren’t on a HAL tour) or wanted to go over before the tour started. However, on this trip, Guest Services confirmed that we would just show our room key at the Gangway and would be allowed to get on a tender without a ticket. I hope they were correct. Wouldn’t be the first time I’ve received incorrect information.

Once I met with Guest Services, I strolled a mile around the Promenade deck hoping I would see some dolphins or seals, but I didn’t.

Met Chuck at the Dive-In Hamburger/Hot dog place on the Lido deck near the pool. There is also a taco bar near this venue. We found a table near the pool. It was pleasant and people were sunning themselves. The ship had the cover partially open so a slight breeze could come in. When it is completely closed, the area can get stuffy. But at least you can still enjoy the area even when it is raining.

I got a hotdog with fries and Chuck made himself a taco salad.

We spent a pleasant afternoon getting some sun and reading. The time passed quickly.

SA: Antarctic Experience Day 4

Tuesday, January 24, 2023

When we I came back to the room, I discovered that our room steward had delivered our Mariner Delft tile (gift given to HAL cruisers). In the past, we have received these tiles at an appreciation luncheon. I assume there will be no appreciation luncheon on this cruise. I don’t know if HAL has done away with these luncheons or there are just not enough sea days in this cruise to have one.

We went to the Gallery Bar for a drink before we arrived at the Pinnacle Grill for our meal. This restaurant is the HAL steakhouse and is an upcharge. Our meal was included in our booking promotion. For the price, you get an appetizer, entree, sides, and a dessert. In the past, you could get multiple appetizers, but HAL recently implemented an extra charge for more than one appetizer. I heard some grumbling, but I didn’t think the upcharge was that bad and it saves on food waste.

While we were waiting for our food, we talked to a couple at the next table. Found out they were also signed up for the same 2024 Alaska cruise that we are. Small world.

I ordered the shrimp cocktail, lobster, asparagus, and key lime pie (tasted more like cheesecake), and coffee.

Chuck ordered the crab cakes, filet mignon and lobster tail, mashed potatoes, and a cheese plate.

Chuck had to help me eat my key lime pie and he ended up boxing up his cheese plate to bring back to the room. I’m glad we didn’t order an extra appetizer. We would have been way too full.

Because of the strong coffee, I was able to stay up instead of going face down in a food coma. Since we had seen the mainstage show “Off the Charts” more than once, we just went to the Rolling Stone Lounge for their last two sets before saying good night.

I did not fall asleep right away like I expected. I guess the strong coffee that allowed me to go to the Rolling Stone Lounge ended up keeping me awake until well after midnight. Even when I went to sleep, it was a restless sleep.

I woke up at 7:00 and thought we would be in another calm bay with icebergs. Instead, we were in open rough seas, and it was very foggy.

The Captain announced that it would be about 1:00 before we arrived at Elephant Island. According to Wikipedia, Elephant Island is an ice-covered, mountainous island in the outer reaches of the South Shetland Islands, in the Southern Ocean. It got its name either because of the number of elephant seals found there or because some say its shape is that of an elephant head.

We were going there because of its historical aspect regarding Ernest Shackleton. According to Wikipedia, Shackleton and his crew were lost at sea when their ship the HMS Endurance went down and they spent months in lifeboats. They all eventually arrived at Elephant Island. Shackleton realized that they had little chance of being discovered by a passing ship, so he took a small crew in a lifeboat for help. Miraculously, four and a half months later, Shackleton and crew returned with a ship and rescued all 22 men.

The Captain wanted to circle the Island so we could see how stark it was and get an appreciation of what the crew had to endure.

We were in the Lido just finishing lunch when we arrived at Elephant Island. I went back to the room and got my winter gear on and my camera. I went to the Promenade deck on the starboard side and tried to go out the door to the deck. The wind on the starboard side was so strong that I couldn’t push the door open. Another guest said to try the port side as the wind wasn’t holding the door closed on that side of the ship.

I was able to open the portside door and step out on the deck intending to walk around to the starboard side for some photos. Just as I took my first step, a wind gust pushed me back a few steps before I could brace myself. Okay, that’s not good. Then, a big spray from the waves came over the railing and hit me full in the face. Okay, Mother Nature, I got the message. I’m going back inside.

I went back to the room to get out of the wet coat and cap and dry my face, hair, and camera. I wasn’t in the room long before the Captain announced that due to worsening conditions, we would be heading away from Elephant Island. I never did get a photo.

We were now headed to the Falkland Islands. Kind of an inauspicious way to end our amazing time in Antarctica but as the Captain reiterated as we sailed away “we got the true Antarctic experience.” Yes, we definitely did.

Now that I was warm and dry, I debated whether to download my photos or take a nap. The nap won.

Travel Trivia

Antarctica

Antarctica is bigger than Europe and almost double the size of Australia.

Because it experiences such little rain, Antarctica is considered a desert.

Antarctica is home to several volcanoes and two of them are active.

In 1978 Emilio Palma became the first document child to have been born in Antarctica.

Researchers have estimated that 40-50 million years ago, temperatures in Antarctica reached up to 63 degrees. Scientists have also found fossils showing that Antarctica was once covered with verdant green forests and inhabited by dinosaurs.

Hiding under the Antarctic ice is an entire lake: Lake Vostok is a pristine freshwater lake buried beneath 2.5 miles of solid ice. It is about the size of Lake Ontario and is the largest of the 200 liquid lakes strewn around the continent under the ice.

Antarctica has a peculiar group of fish called the ice fish. These have no red pigment – hemoglobin – in their blood to carry oxygen around. They get by without it because the temperature is so low and oxygen dissolves better in cold temperatures. They just have a larger volume of clear blood instead and this gives them an unusually ghostly white color, particularly their gills.

Antarctica’s geography and climate means it gets a special kind of wind called katabatics. These are winds that are formed when air moves down a slope. In Antarctica, the mountain range paired against large, flat expanses makes for a dramatic wind combination. Some of the highest wind speeds in history have been recorded on the southern continent.

To be called an iceberg the chunk of ice must reach at least 16.5 feet above the water. Smaller floating ice pieces are called bergy bits (3 to 16 feet), growlers (less than 3 feet) or brash ice (small pieces that crackle as they melt and ancient air escapes).

SA: Antarctica Experience Day 3

Monday, January 23, 2023

We ate in the Lido again to be ready for the Casino drawing. I had a noodle bowl with lamb. Chuck had some breaded haddock. We both went to the salad bar for salads. I like that HAL creates your salad for you instead of everyone handling the serving tongs and spoons. They have a lot of ingredients for your salad choices. My favorites – artichokes, dried cranberries, and blue cheese crumbles.

Tonight, the Casino did call Chuck’s name and he won $50.00 for playing the game. Glad we were there.

Tonight’s entertainment on the main stage was the BBC film: Blue Planet II. We have seen it a number of times so we skipped it tonight. We chose to go to the Rolling Stone Lounge. Shelby Sikes, the lead female singer, does a wonderful rendition of Tennessee Whiskey.

At 11:00 pm we called it a night. It was still very light outside.

This morning was overcast but it was not snowing. By the time we finished breakfast, we were in Wilhelmina Bay (named after Queen Wilhelmina) but many people call it Whale – mina Bay. We were not disappointed.

One whale got particularly close to the ship.

They were vocal today also.

We also had some icebergs pass by that were taller than the ship.

My Fitbit indicated I had walked over 4 miles just walking around on the Promenade deck today. I needed the exercise in order to be ready for our Pinnacle Grill meal tonight. Time to get ready.

SA: Antarctic Experience Day 2 (part 3)

Sunday, January 22, 2023

After a lunch of tomato bisque and a three-cheese grilled sandwich, I was ready to get back outside. Saw two unexpected sights right before we got to Cuverville Island and the Errera Channel – a pod of orcas and a motorized sailboat. The orcas were fast so only got a photo of the last one. I would not have wanted to sail these waters in such a small boat.

We were not the only ship in the area. There were several expedition ships and they had tenders and zodiacs taking people back and forth to the land.

Finally saw some birds flying –

And more icebergs –

As much as I would have liked to keep staying outside, it was time to get ready for the evening activities.

SA: Antarctic Experience Day 2 (part 2)

Sunday, January 22, 2023

We left Paradise Bay and made our way to Neko Harbor. It was still snowing heavily. The ship was having to cut through a lot of what the Captain called “pancake ice.” Wikipedia defines pancake ice as a form of sea ice that consists of round pieces of ice that will fuse together. The diameters can range from 12 inches (30 centimeters) to 9 feet (3 meters) with thicknesses up to 4 inches (10 centimeters) depending on the local conditions. It forms as a result of wave action on slush or ice rind.

Right before lunch, a big iceberg came floating by with a bunch of Gentoo penguins and some sort of sea bird riding on it. However, as it got closer to the ship, many of the penguins jumped off. A few brave souls and the bird never jumped and just sailed on by.